Many of us dream of selling up and owning a vineyard abroad. Of all wine regions, South Africa is perhaps the jewel in the crown. There is surely nowhere on earth more beautiful, with Cape Dutch houses nestled among the lush green vineyards against a stunning mountain backdrop, and with such extensive ocean views.
In 1995, that is exactly what Roger and Annie Gabb thought when they bought 20 hectares of vineyards on prime Schaapenberg terroir, in the Helderburg Basin, next to one of the Cape's most famous wine estates, Vergelegen.
The Gabbs knew South Afri
ca well, or at least they thought they did. Roger had set up a business, Western Wines, at his home in Shropshire. He started by selling to local restaurants and grew it to a highly profitable business, importing wines from the Cape. His Kumala brand became a global success, cornering 40 per cent of the UK's Cape wine market. He sold out to Vincor International and retired to his new Cape home, appropriately named Journey's End, with his son, Rollo, running the marketing of his new Cape wines.
In 2005, the vines were mature enough to launch the new Journey's End estate wine range, but during their first harvest, disaster struck – a bushfire swept through the region.
In one night, the family's beautiful Cape Dutch-style house was burnt to the ground. "My parents and Paul and Gina Fourie, our farm manager and his wife, very nearly lost their lives," says Rollo. "The vineyards and cellar escaped the fire, however, so we continued as a family as normal – and made our first Journey's End wine range," he says.
So their 2005 vintage was vinified alongside the embers of this catastrophic house fire. It marked the start of a new life for the estate.
"We now have a new house – but we are better protected, having learnt our lesson the hard way," says Rollo.
That year was also the first vintage for their Karoo-born winemaker, Leon Esterhuizen, who trained in California and Spain. His first attempts at chardonnay and cabernet sauvignon have been very successful, although his 2005 syrah could be better. "Leon picked the syrah a little too early that year, but we learnt from this mistake and picked our 2006 later, with more optimum ripeness."
The Gabbs aim to use low yields (2.5 tonnes per acre) and minimum intervention to create elegant restrained single vineyard varietals.
Journey's End is still an estate in the making, but has already made a name for itself for its chardonnay – the first white wine new release ever to be awarded five stars from John Platter – and its first vintage of cabernet sauvignon was served to first-class passengers with BA. Last year the Gabbs bought a further six hectares to plant with sauvignon blanc, with further planned plantings of viognier, semillon, petit verdot and mourvedre.
Taste test: Journey's EndWhiteChardonnay 2006
(£12.99)
Ripe lemon/lime bouquet with toasty undertones, very rich succulent full fruit palate, lush textured, complex oak notes and a lingering savoury finish – delicious in its rich mouthfilling fruit style. 17/20
RedCabernet Sauvignon 2005
(£12.99)
Vanilla, spice and cassis notes, a restrained, sinewy structure that fleshes out mid-palate to a very lush rounded Cape cabernet – shows good potential. 15.5/20
Merlot 2005
(£12.99)
Very plummy, dried herb bouquet with elegant fruits on the palate, but tannins are rather too austere; needs more depth and intensity of fruit; matured for 12 months in American and French oak. 13/20
Shiraz 2005
(£12.99)
Peppery, spicy, savoury notes with restrained with vanilla hints on the palate from 15 months in American and French oak. 14.5/20
Cape Doctor Syrah 2005
(£16.99)
Subdued bouquet that opens out to produce earthy gamey notes and dry tannins, but it lacks ripe fruits and weight; disappointing for the price. 13/20
• Stockists: House of Menzies, Aberfeldy, 01887 829666, www.houseofmenzies.com; Fine Wine Company, Musselburgh, 0131-669 7716, www.thefinewinecompany.co.uk
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