The butler did it

WHEN GLENEAGLES opened in 1924, it was described as a "Riviera in the Highlands" and, even more boldly, "the eighth wonder of the world". More than 80 years on, it is still a sight to behold when you find yourself standing outwith its art deco portals.

However, the iconic 1920s styling poses a concern whenever the hotel requires its rooms to be spruced up for spring. How to preserve that historic ambience without missing out on new textures, fabrics or flat-screenTVs?

The challenge has been met with the transformation of one floor into a set of elegant suites. The ten "Spirit Suites", each named after drinks firm Diageo brands, are now the most expensive rooms in the hotel – ironic considering this floor used to be the servants' quarters. Their distinctive style is courtesy of interior designer Amanda Rosa, who created the look for such hotels as Malmaison and Dakota. The palette is neutral and relaxing, with shades of mushroom occasionally accented with jewel-coloured throws. She's not scared of pattern, so bold florals feature on armchairs and pieces of artwork are positioned in each room.

A suite means two large bedrooms, a spacious living area and two bathrooms. We almost didn't know what to do with ourselves, so when our butler arrived (yes, really) we focused on him. And what a good idea that was. He showed us to the complimentary Champagne, canapes and welcome chocolates, before inviting himself back later to serve pre-dinner cocktails he would prepare in front of us, alongside yet more pre-dinner nibbles.

We adapted to this decadence surprisingly quickly, and in so doing, found ourselves able to air small complaints. It's the way of the luxury hotel world now, but am I alone in wishing that the lighting system in bedrooms could be a little less complex? What's wrong with a wall switch that puts on an overhead light? Or am I missing something? I didn't really see the bathroom properly as I couldn't get the hang of the various dimmer switches that lit the marble sinks and shower from below. And it would have been nice to see them in all their glory as the swirling dark marble fitments certainly felt lovely.

Despite my problems with the lighting in the bathroom, I did manage to lay my hands on the deliciously scented products provided for guests. A step up from Molton Brown, these French shampoos and shower gels by Ermenegildo Zegna were a fragrant treat to use.

However, as lovely as the new suites are, where Gleneagles really stands head and shoulders above the competition is with its programme of activities. Whether you're an experienced clay pigeon shot or a beginner, the staff at the shooting school are incredibly welcoming and great teachers. On a glorious autumn day we headed to the grouse butts to test our skills.

I quickly realised why my instructor, John, is regularly asked for by name. Each time I missed a clay he told me exactly what I had done wrong, usually that I had aimed slightly too far behind the target instead of ahead of it. Then he would tell me what to do next time and if I followed his advice, I struck gold, or rather, the clay. This pattern repeated itself on the Bolting Rabbits, the Running Hare and the Springing Teal and left me with a smile on my face for the rest of the day.

Our shooting lesson was followed by a session at the gundog training centre, the only school of its kind in the world. It was a joy to spend time in the company of these gorgeous, biddable black labradors, and amazing to see what good, consistent training can achieve.

Our handler had it right when he explained that it is rarely the dog that sends out mixed messages. How is a poor pooch meant to fathom that he is allowed on the sofa, but if you get a new sofa and change your mind, he has to stay on the floor?

I recommend developing a commanding tone to your voice if you want to be good at gundog training. You instruct your dog with clear gestures – for example, to send him off after a (pretend) bird, you bend your knees to get closer to him, point your arm in the direction you want him to go, and say his name with authority. This combination of instructions is not as easy as you might think.

My weedy call of "Billy!" was pathetic compared to my other half's convincing roar of "Tar!" – short for Ptarmigan. I'll tell you how unconvincing I was – my impeccably trained gundog hesitated about being sent into the water – he just wasn't confident that I meant it. Pride injured, I continue to maintain that Tar was a much easier name to call masterfully than Billy. Try it.

During our visit we ate dinner in two of the restaurants, although unfortunately not Andrew Fairlie's Michelin-starred place, which must be booked separately when you are arranging your stay. Of the two we preferred the traditional Strathearn restaurant as it's really what you expect from a glamorous break at Gleneagles. The silver glinted in the candlelight as we were shown to an elegant round table by the window. The napkins were white linen and the food was classic, featuring Scottish specialities including smoked salmon and diver-caught scallops. If you have children or prefer a more informal dining experience, opt for the hotel's newest option, Deseo, a Mediterranean-themed space that is light and airy and has more of a café feel. When we visited on an English school holiday weekend it was busy with families who seemed to be relishing the relaxed atmosphere.

The hotel is already gearing up for the Ryder Cup in 2014. Early birds can even purchase Gleneagles Ryder Cup merchandise in the golf shop.

But there's lots to look forward to at the hotel before then. Later this month another much-anticipated event takes place when Scotland's first dedicated ESPA spa opens after an £8 million redevelopment, again with the involvement of Amanda Rosa – she worked with the skincare brand on the project.

The Spa at Gleneagles by ESPA, to use its formal name, will include 20 spacious treatment rooms, and among the most striking features will be the dark brown, almost black, vitality pool, lit by fibre optics.

I'm not sure they had spas in 1920s Scotland, but I'm sure they would have loved this.

Factfile

How to get there

Take the M9 which becomes the A9 and continue for 11 miles. Turn off at the junction with the A823 signed 'Crieff and Gleneagles'. Turn left on to the A823 after the sign for the Gleneagles Hotel and golf courses. The hotel is about a mile further on.

Where to stay

The Gleneagles Hotel, Auchterarder, Perthshire, tel: [phone], www.gleneagles.com

Package

Prices for the Fall into Spring B&B package start from £900 per suite, per night and are valid until 30 April, 2008. Includes one night's accommodation for two, with Scottish breakfast and use of club leisure facilities, tel: [phone].

and there's more

Scotsman Reader Holidays offer alternative Scottish destinations, tel: [phone].