BY DAY, you could be riding your trusty steed across the untamed wilderness of the rugged Rocky Mountains, and by night, enjoying award-winning dining in a cosmopolitan city that is home to a million residents. Host to the 1988 Winter Olympics, Calga
ry, in the province of Alberta, is still a place where you can come face-to-face with the Old West – cowboy hats are optional.
Before you go For information on history, activities, hotels, restaurants and visa requirements, see www.tourismcalgary.com. Then watch Brokeback Mountain. The story was set in Wyoming but director Ang Lee chose the mountains and wide-open skies of the Rockies around Calgary in which to film his Oscar-winner.
Planes, trains, automobiles The recent collapse of Zoom Airlines, which left hundreds of passengers stranded either side of the Atlantic, looked like a sign that low-cost flights to Canada were at an end. But now Globespan (www.flyglobespan.com) is taking bookings for summer 2009, flying Glasgow to Calgary from £219 one way.
Getting around A combination of buses and C-trains (a light rail system) is the best way to get from A to B, and transfer tickets enable passengers to switch from one mode of transport to another. For details of routes, see www.calgarytransit.com. Taxis can also be hailed on the street, and fares around the city centre shouldn't cost more than C15 (£8). Calgary is also home to some of the largest parks in Canada, and the 550km pathway system is great for cycling and rollerblading. Hire a bike or blades through Sports Rent (www.sportsrent.ca).
Tourist trail Take a trip up the 620ft-tall Calgary Tower for a breathtaking view of the city and the Rocky Mountains – if you're feeling brave, walk across the glass floor suspended above the city. The nearby Glenbow Museum (www.glenbow.org) is three floors of western Canadian culture, plus lots of hands-on activities for children. Then take the Plus-15s elevated walkway (so-called because it is 15ft above street level). A short distance north-west is Eau Claire Market, home to stalls, cafés, bars and an Imax theatre.
go native Be prepared. Calgarians have a saying – "If you don't like the weather, just wait five minutes." So, rather than get caught out, take your raincoat, some sunscreen, a jumper and a pair of shades wherever you go.
Nightlife It's more of a pub scene (you can keep on drinking until 2am) than a club scene and, not surprising for a cowboy town, there is always plenty of good live country-and-western music to be found. But if you don't think you can cut it on the achy-breaky-heart front, you can always get free dancing lessons at Ranchman's, on MacLeod Trail South.
Where to stay Downtown Calgary's newest, chicest boutique venue is Hotel Arts (www.hotelarts.ca), all marble bathrooms, plasma screens, cool outdoor pool and stunning skyline views. There are even two award-winning restaurants. Luxury rooms start at C159 (plus tax) a night.
For something a little more down-home, the intimate Along River Ridge B&B (www.alongriverridgebb.com) is a cosy little hideaway with the Bow River on the doorstep and just 15 minutes from the city and an hour from the Rockies. A highlight is its 50ft deck overlooking the river, complete with fire pit. Double rooms cost 75 (plus tax) a night.
Where to eat Break up your shopping with brunch at the bustling Avenue Diner (www.avenuediner.com), on Stephen Avenue Walk. Then head a little off the beaten track to the city's south-east section and Alloy (www.alloydining.com), where there's a fusion of Asian, Latin and Mediterranean cooking going down. The emphasis is on organic, healthy cuisine, so start with coconut curry squash soup, followed by seared duck with grilled peach relish and sweet potato gnocchi.
What to buy Alberta is the only province in Canada without a sales tax, so you can stock up on all manner of goodies while in its largest city.
When to go If you visit in July you had better pack your Stetson, spurs and chaps, since that's when the city hosts the biggest celebration of cowboy culture in the world – the ten-day annual Calgary Stampede (www.calgarystampede.com). Look no further for rodeos, wagon races, square dancing and free pancake breakfasts. Yeeha!
