MANY of the places visited by Robert Burns have become popular tourist spots, and the poet's love of nature can serve as an inspirational guide to some of the best ways to experience Scotland's natural splendour.
Back in the 18th century, most people would never have considered travelling to the country's wilder regions for pleasure. Aside from the lack of access, these areas were thought of as places to be endured, not enjoyed. But in the years after the po
et's death, particularly during the Victorian era, exploring the wilderness of Scotland became a more attractive proposition.
Burns visited Aberfeldy in 1787 and took a walk up by the side of the Falls of Moness. So impressed was he by what he saw that he wrote 'The Birks o' Aberfeldy' (birks are birch trees). And his description still holds true today: "The braes ascend like lofty wa's, / The foaming stream deep-roarin' fa's / O'erhung wi' fragrant spreading shaws / The birks o' Aberfeldy".
This is a walk that is best undertaken after a period of rain, when the Moness burn is running high and plumes of spray from its waterfalls billow up into the sky.
The first part of the route is gentle and leads past a bench with a sculpture of Burns placed in it – a popular spot for photographs. The way then becomes steeper and the gorge that carries the burn narrows; look out for a plaque in a rocky alcove on the left, which marks the spot where the Bard is reputed to have written his poem.
A series of steps and walkways then takes you up some extremely steep slopes – on the plus side, though, you will also find some good vantage points here. At the second set of steps and walkways, a path runs straight ahead to reach a viewpoint from the bottom of the gorge (it is currently fenced off, as it is unsafe and scheduled repair work is yet to be carried out).
But the main path leads up to an even better viewpoint, from where you can see the main waterfall in all its glory. There is also a verse from 'The Birks o' Aberfeldy' printed on a board here – one of a number passed on the walk.
At the top of the slope, you cross a bridge above the waterfall – linger in the middle to soak up not only the spray but also the deafening roar as the waters thunder down.
The return journey is more gentle and offers a chance to stretch out as you drop down through birch and beech woodland as you return to the car park.
Perth and Kinross Council has produced a wonderful leaflet, which you can pick up at the car park near the start of the walk. It explains Burns's connection with the gorge as well as the plants, trees and wildlife you can see along the way. A red squirrel was the highlight for me when I visited earlier this month.
Take care in places, especially with children, as it can be slippery underfoot and the drops down the sides of the gorge are potentially fatal. (There is a fence above the highest parts, although young children could slip through the gaps.)
Distance 2 miles.
Height climbed 600ft.
Time 1 to 2 hours.
Map OS Landranger 52.
Park From the centre of Aberfeldy, take the A826 Crieff road. After half a mile, turn right at a stone bridge to reach a car park for the Birks o' Aberfeldy (there are no toilets here). This walk can be started from the centre of Aberfeldy, which you can reach by bus (Traveline, www.travelinescotland.com, 0871 200 22 33).
In summary Follow the path at the top of the car park, going into the trees for about 50 yards, then turn left to cross a wooden bridge. The undulating path follows the east bank of the Moness burn and takes you past a sculpture of Burns on a bench.
Steps take you up the steepest parts of the gorge, then it levels out near the top. Here you will reach a good viewpoint for the Falls of Moness.
Continue on the path, round to the right, and across a bridge above the falls.
On the other side, go right at a fork, through birch and beech trees, down the west side of the gorge and back to the car park.
Refreshments There are a number of places to choose from in Aberfeldy.
While you are in the area Whisky enthusiasts will find a variety of tours and tastings on offer at Dewar's World of Whisky (01887 822010,
www.dewarswow.com) – on the road out of Aberfeldy, towards Pitlochry.
Otherwise, you could head for Loch Tay and drive by its side, along the A827, turning off after 31/2 miles to go to Fortingall – home of a yew tree said to be the oldest living thing in Europe.
