SOUTRA Hill on the edge of the Moorfoot Hills by the A68 offers commanding views down to the flat and fertile Lothians. It is claimed that you can see 60 peaks from there - over to the Pentlands, the Ochils and the Lomonds, but its location makes it a windy spot.
On one side of the hill runs Dere Street, the Roman road constructed in the late 1st century AD to link the legionary fortress of York (Eburacum) and Inchtuthil, near Perth.
Long after the Romans had withdrawn, this remained the principal north-s
outh route, used, for example, by the armies of Edward I in the Wars of Independence, but more generally by travellers and pilgrims, for whom the nearby Soutra Hospital provided shelter.
However, Soutra Aisle is all that remains of that hospital, founded by the Augustinians at the request of King Malcolm IV around 1160. It was a medieval institution and in its heyday one of the three most important hospitals in Scotland. It treated the sick and provided alms to the poor, hospitality to travellers and sanctuary to fugitives.
Archaeological excavations have found traces of medicinal products from all over the world, including a mixture of the seeds of hemlock, black henbane and opium poppy, used as a general anaesthetic in amputations. For 300 years the hospital continued to deliver its important service, but in the 1460s the master of the hospital was accused of misconduct and the hospital stripped of its estates.
Soutra Aisle was originally part of the hospital’s church. It later became the burial vault of a local family and this saved it from the fate of the rest of the institution.
So how about something quite different for a winter outing - a visit to Soutra Hill and the remains of the hospital, followed by a walk down Dere Street to the remains of a Roman camp? And on the way back, take in some modest hills, including Dun Law and its wind farm.
Just before the high point of the A68 on the north side of Soutra Hill, turn off to the south-west on the B6368. After half a mile Soutra Aisle is on the left, but continue 100 yards further on to the sign-posted car park on the right among some trees, at map ref 453583.
While the Aisle is all that is left of this Augustinian abbey and hospital, it is not difficult to imagine weary pilgrims climbing to over 350m, just by-passing the top of Soutra Hill, and dropping down for a welcome refuge. However, after visiting the Aisle, what about a walk?
You will need Ordnance Survey map 66, Edinburgh and area. It is only half a mile there and back to Soutra Hill from the car park, a raw and bleak spot on a nasty day.
Now for a 21/2-mile walk along Dere Street, south-eastwards to the Roman camp. Admittedly there is little to see on the ground there, but there are good views to the south.
From just south of the car park, leave the road opposite a gate appropriately marked as Dere Street Farm. Head south for King’s Inch, crossing the Armet Water at a clearing in a plantation. With the plantation on your right, follow the edge of the trees south-east then SSE.
You are walking the Roman road ... no, rather the line of the road, for although marked on the map, it is not at all obvious in many places. The high part at the halfway stage is flat and rough, and can be very boggy.
On the lower slopes of Turf Law a farm track makes for easier going. Look out for the historic buildings sign confirming that you are on part of Dere Street.
On the way back from Kirktonhill, slightly firmer ground can be reached by walking over Turf Law, and after a deviation to the west, over Dun Law. This last section contains the wind farm, as if you had not noticed.
Once back at the car, have a look at the Linn Dean wildlife reserve run by the Scottish Wildlife Trust. There is a layby on the north side of the A68, at map ref 468594. A small steep-sided glen, formed by the Linn Dean Water, was an area of interest to the old hospital doctors as a source of natural remedies.
Factfile
Map Ordnance Survey map 66, Edinburgh and area
Distance 6 miles
Height 250m
Terrain Wet and rough Roman road, with farm track and drier moorland
Time 3 hours
Start point Car park on B6368, at map ref 453583
Nearest town Dalkeith to the north, Lauder to the south
Nearest refreshment spot Goblin Ha’ at Gifford
