Wine: Root cause of bad wine

EVERY year a few pals and I gather for a vinous celebration that naturally takes the form of a lunch. We meet, usually at a friendly establishment that allows us to bring our own wine, and merrily discuss recent vintages, wine politics and any other subject surrounding the noble grape.

This year, inexplicably, the occasion fell spectacularly flat. Even now, months on, we are still trying to fathom what happened. The wines were of top quality, the food superb and the company familiar but something just didn't click. One theory is that the date we chose fell on a "root" day. The weather was admittedly appalling, but if only we had chosen a "flower" day or, indeed, a "leaf" day everything would have gone swimmingly. Sounds crazy? That's probably because it is.

I am, of course, referring to the lunar calendar first published in the 1950s by a German great-grandmother called Maria Thun, which is now heavily influencing the way the industry tastes wine. The biodynamic calendar categorises days as "fruit", "flower", "leaf" or "root", according to the moon and stars. It is part of the wider biodynamic philosophy inspired by the writings of the Austrian scholar Rudolf Steiner, which in short believes that if a wine is to be good, it has to be true to its origins.

Biodynamic winemakers see the vineyard as a living organic system, in the context of the wider pattern of lunar and cosmic systems. The basis of their philosophy is that the life cycle of a plant is governed by the position of the moon in relation to other planets. To put it simply, plants grow and flower at different rates according to the cosmic rhythms of the planets.

For the record, some of France's most prestigious wine growers have been persuaded by biodynamics, including Christophe Ehrhart, winemaker at Alsace's Josmeyer, Leroy in Burgundy and Chapoutier in the Rhône. Of those I've tasted, I always felt their wines were lighter, cleaner and purer.

OK, so we knew that. What may surprise is that humans taste wine differently on different days. According to the lunar cycle wine is best on fruit days, followed by flower, leaf and root days. In short, both humans and the wine are reacting to the lunar cycles, changing the way the wine tastes.

I'm willing to be convinced. Anyone who has purchased a case of wine will know that sometimes the wine falls flat. There is nothing technically wrong with it, it just doesn't taste as good as it has previously. We all know the weather can play its part. Light wines show perfectly on warm, cloudless, still days but can close up when it is overcast.

I have canvassed opinion on this from Patrice Noyelle, chief executive at Pol Roger, biodynamic winemaker Vanya Cullen at western Australia's Cullen vineyards and Alain Moueix at Bordeaux's Chateau Fonroque. None of them can fully explain what happens, but there is a consensus that the vineyard acts like a living creature, with mood swings according to the lunar cycle.

My own trials have been inconclusive but I do try to taste wines on a range of days to gauge their development. My advice would be to suspend your prejudices and give it a go.

One last thing: next year my wine pals and I will be meeting on a fruit day.


Villa Maria Cellar Selection Pinot Noir 2007, Marlborough, New Zealand, 14 per cent, £12.49, Majestic

On discount at Majestic (two for £9.99 each) and well worth snapping up. Villa Maria is one of the more reliable brands. This possesses a nice purity of red fruit with crunchy, rounded tannins. It's a classic example of the type of above-average pinot noir that is currently coming out of New Zealand.

Tesco Finest Premier Cru Champagne Brut, 12 per cent, £18.98 (£14.98 until the end of the month)

I was really surprised by the quality of this elegant little number. It's had its fair share of column inches and I'm not surprised, as given the exorbitant rise in Champagne prices, for under £15 this really competes. Well balanced with a grassy, citrus character, it none the less has plenty of body.

Merlot Oxford Landing, Waikerie, South Australia, 13.5 per cent, £6.29 (now two for £10), Tesco

From one of Australia's most famous wine estates, this is a stalky and commercial "house" wine that offers good value. It has everything that one would expect from a South Australian merlot, with plenty of stewed plum fruit, baked spice and a slight vegetal character.

Stockists: Tesco, Majestic

Deals of the week

Château Charron 'Acacia' Usually £9.99, now buy three for £25 at Oddbins (www.oddbins.com)

Terra Barossa Duo Special Offer, case of 12, £59.94, Marks & Spencer (www.marksandspencer.com)

Marlborough Hills Pinot Grigio 2008 Marlborough Usually £7.49, now £6.24 Majestic (www.majestic.co.uk)