Wine: Take me to the River

IT is testament to the modesty of Neil McCallum that his wines haven't received the global recognition they deserve. Sure, in wine circles the mere mention of the words Dry River elicit the sort of inspired reverence usually reserved for the top estates in Burgundy or for particularly fine claret. But outside a tiny circle of aficionados, the trade and producers, Dry River has taken a back seat behind a clutch of more famous sauvignon blanc producers such as Cloudy Bay.

One suspects this is exactly how Dr McCallum (he completed a doctorate in chemistry at Oxford University) likes it. Protective of his viticultural secrets – he once experimented with reflective matting under the vines to get more sunshine to his grapes – his dedication to quality leaves him little time for anything else.

It is this intense concentration on all aspects of wine making, insistence on the vine producing tiny yields and a philosophy of minimal human intervention in the cellars that have resulted in boutique wines that can justifiably lay claim to being New Zealand's finest.

Getting hold of them is a different matter. The annual production is tiny, around 3,000 cases a year, and they are only available through a handful of merchants on strict allocation. Furthermore, those fortunate enough to try the wines often return vintage after vintage, exacerbating their exclusivity and pushing their prices north of £40 a bottle.

It's been quite a journey for McCallum, who in 1979 set up shop in Martinborough, at the southern end of the North Island, planting a parcel of vines on poor, free-draining soil.

Back then there wasn't a vineyard in sight but now wineries such as Ata Rangi and Palliser have helped the region achieve fame for its chardonnay, riesling, sauvignon blanc and pinot noir. His aim was to make individual wines that reflect the "terroir", the character of the vintage and that benefit from extensive cellaring. He's certainly achieved this.

I joined him for a tasting of sauvignon (now out of production), pinot gris, gewurztraminer, chardonnay, pinot noir and syrah on one of his rare visits to Edinburgh. In his own words, he's not trying to emulate the great wines of Europe but to make wines that reflect the character of where they are made.

They possess restraint, have enormous power and concentration, retain pure fruit and are oozing complexity. In short, they are fascinating. Watching them evolve in the glass and over many years is a lesson in just how complex the flavour of wine can be.

The nose on three different vintages of Dry River pinot noir is a case in point. The 2006 throws off notes of black cherry and perfume. The 2001 has a meaty, earthy flavour with a smell of wet river gravel, while the 1997 has a raisiny, cinnamon character. Three different years, three very different wines.

A true intellectual, McCallum is devoting a huge amount of energy to the reduction of alcohol levels. Convinced that tricks in the winery diminish the wine's flavour, McCallum is looking at viticultural solutions.

By removing the base leaves from the vine at flowering, the extra light speeds up the phenolic ripening while keeping the sugars low.

This technique can reduce the alcohol content by 1 per cent. In an age of high alcohol wines, this is an incredibly welcome development.

2006 Pinot Gris, Dry River, Martinborough, New Zealand, 13.5 per cent, £27.50

A hugely extracted wine, this is reminiscent of some of the more expressive, oily wines that come out of Alsace. The nose has a slight tropical edge with notes of pear and peach. But the overwhelming character is one of spice and concentration. This will age for many years.

2006 Pinot Noir, Dry River, Martinborough, New Zealand, 13 per cent, £41.50

Hugely concentrated, this is very Burgundian in character. The nose is fantastically complex with notes of baked cherries, ripe sloes and a slightly perfumed twang. The palate is long with vegetal and mushroom notes and big, ripe tannins.

2006 Syrah Amaranth, Dry River, Martinborough, New Zealand, 13.5 per cent, £31.50

Simply sensational. The nose is bursting with spicy cracked pepper, sandalwood with a rich, velvety texture and a complete tannic structure. Unashamedly northern Rhône in style.

Stockists

Raeburn Fine Wines, Edinburgh (0131-343 1159)

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