The Devonshire Arms sits on a lush river plain on the outskirts of the village of Bolton Abbey in the Yorkshire Dales. Huge hills dotted with heather fan out on three sides. As we stepped out of the car, our daughters, aged six and three – authentic townies – squealed to see sheep grazing.
From the moment we walked through the door, past a neat row of wellington boots and fishing rods, it felt as if we had arrived at the home of a well-to-do family. Doubtless that is the intention of the Duke and Duchess of Devonshire, whose family hav
e owned this land since the 18th century. The celebrated Georgiana, Duchess of Devonshire, played by Keira Knightley in The Duchess, holidayed here.
While a sense of history pervades the hotel, it is not stuffy and has a mix of traditional and contemporary design. As the friendly staff explained, the more conservative furnishings and paintings were chosen by the duke's mother, Debo, the last surviving Mitford sister. The vibrant-coloured chairs in the newer wing were picked by the current duchess, Amanda.
This theme of ancient and modern extends into the bedrooms. Our Beamsley Suite was traditional and, with two bedrooms and two good-sized bathrooms, perfect for a family. Better still, the children's room was up a staircase, away from the parents.
The best rooms have their own theme. One is called Photographer, with modern photos taken by a Devonshire scion. Another is the Artist's Room, with soothing watercolours and a modern grey steel bath. Some of those in the older wing – such as Park Top, named after a racehorse owned by Debo's late husband – are showing their age a little.
For our long weekend we knew there was no shortage of treats: a Michelin-starred restaurant called The Burlington, a relaxed brasserie, lots of good walks and a pool and spa. Our girls were most excited about the 40ft indoor pool, with a high ceiling open to the roof beams and no restrictions on what time children can swim. There is also a Jacuzzi, steam room and Espa treatments. I recommend the male grooming session, including a massage and facial. My only mistake was to agree to take the kids afterwards.
Most people come to enjoy the countryside, and it is stunning. As we drove around we saw more cyclists and pheasants than cars. On our first day we visited Bolton Abbey, a ruined 12th-century priory less than a mile away. The setting, overlooking a wide bend in the river, is gloriously tranquil. It's fun to try the stepping stones across the river, or there is a narrow bridge for the faint-hearted.
Many visitors head another mile to the Cavendish Pavilion, built in the 1880s to entertain bank holiday visitors. There are lovely walks along the wooded riverbanks and our girls loved feeding the ducks and buying souvenirs in the gift shop. As the hills continue to climb, there is a plunging waterfall called the Strid, and countless other places to explore – the village of Burnsall and Skipton Castle, to name two.
But the real joy of the Devonshire Arms is the food. We tried the brasserie first, with its hearty Mediterranean menu, much of it locally sourced or from the hotel's vegetable garden. The girls tried Olleys pork sausages (£11) while we ate thick, tender steaks (£16.50).
Of course, we knew the highlight ought to be The Burlington. The sight of the award-winning cellar is enough to whet the appetite, with its glass-fronted display of top clarets, including 1961 Chateaux Palmer and Petrus. We had fun perusing the wine list, which is as thick as a copy of Who's Who.
Our girls were fast asleep – the hotel arranged a babysitter at £10 an hour – so we could not resist the magnificent eight-course tasting menu, for £73 a head. Mosaic of game with Jabugo ham and butternut squash sorbet melted in the mouth; then there was a zinging salted cod with scallop; and the loin of Lakeland venison was superbly dark and rich. And I haven't mentioned the three dessert courses.
Just for good measure, we had the accompanying tasting wine menu of six different vintages. To save our waistlines and the bill, we chose to share wine for one between two, which was plenty.
Plainly this is not for the budget-conscious – there is a heli-pad and two helicopters flew in for Sunday lunch. But there is a cheaper sister hotel, The Devonshire Fell, six miles away. One could do worse than stay there and blow the budget on food at The Burlington.
After a generous breakfast, Claudia, my three-year-old, proclaimed: "This is the best hotel ever." The remarkable Georgiana, a great hostess in her day, would surely have approved. sm
Factfile: Skipton
HOW TO GET THERERail travel from Scotland to Skipton starts at £69.80 from Edinburgh or Glasgow with www.thetrainline.com
Where to StayDoubles at the Devonshire Arms Country House Hotel and Spa, Bolton Abbey, Skipton, North Yorkshire start at £198 B&B including dinner in the brasserie (01756 710 441, www.thedevonshirearms.co.uk).
A
nd There's MoreBolton Abbey (01756 718009, www.boltonabbey.com). Open Mon-Sun 9am-6pm.
Cavendish Pavilion (01756 710 245, ww.cavendishpavilion.co.uk).
Scotsman Reader Holidays offers various trips in Britain. For details visit www.holidays.scotsman.com
