NEED to land a job, or even keep the one you've got? A book by legendary Hollywood costume designer Edith Head can help, discovers Alice Wyllie
WITH swathes of the nation suddenly finding themselves unemployed, and the rest of us desperate to hold on to the job we've got, the phrase "dress for the job you want, not the job you have" has taken on a whole new meaning. The way you dress in bus
iness now matters more than ever and make no mistake – employers are more than able to sort the chic from the chaff.
No-one understood the importance of a well-chosen workplace wardrobe better than the late, legendary Hollywood costume designer Edith Head (1897-1981). Winner of eight Academy Awards – more than any other woman in Oscar history – she dressed everyone from Paul Newman and Robert Redford in The Sting to Audrey Hepburn in Roman Holiday and Sophia Loren in Houseboat.
In 1967 she penned How to Dress for Success, her definitive guide to outfitting oneself for every situation from snaring a man to landing a job, climbing the ladder or keeping your current job. Reprinted by V&A Publishing this month, Head's advice may sound decidedly dated, but with dress-down Fridays a thing of the past and power suiting worming its way back into the workplace (there's a reason it first appeared in the 1930s and everyone, from Phillip Lim to Balmain, is doing it) now's the time to pay heed.
Head offers grave warnings about such perils as "the Jungle of Bad Taste," "the Quicksand of Mediocrity" and "the Big Bad Wolf of Nothing-to-wear". Her approach is simple: keep it chic, simple and appropriate, and remember to balance substance with style, because "looking like a super-efficient executive secretary may help you get the job, but it won't help you punctuate the letters". Sage advice indeed.
So, in this shaky economic climate, how exactly does one 'Dress for Success'? Head suggests you:
BE REALISTIC
Head is scathing in some of her advice, counselling against setting "your heart on a job or a man you can't handle". She suggests aiming high but remaining realistic and, above all, facing "the true facts about yourself" by drawing up a list of your "physical assets and liabilities". This might be interpreted for the 21st century as 'don't wear a pencil skirt if you've overdone the Creme Eggs'.
AVOID LOOKING TOO FLASHY
As we all know, conspicuous consumption is out and modesty is key. Head suggests considering the calibre of the job you're being interviewed for when you're putting together your outfit: "If you are being interviewed for a secretarial position that pays from $65 to $100 a week, wearing a $5,000 mink coat or lavish jewellery will not be good judgment, even if your father is a millionaire." So stow the Cartier in the safe and save your 'it' bag for the weekend.
AVOID LOOKING TOO ATTRACTIVE
Ah, the perils of prettiness. Head cites instances of women who have been turned down for a position simply because they appeared "too elegantly put together". One employer tells her of a case in which he didn't hire a prospective candidate because he reasoned that "anyone that looked that attractive would have a date every night and would never be free to stay until 5:15 in an emergency". Getting the balance right, suggests Head, is not to play down your assets but to "(look] your business best rather than your beau-catching best". Tarty office attire didn't work then and it doesn't work now.
AIM HIGHER
If you want to stand out from your colleagues, you'll need to dress like the boss: "Where the receptionist may go to lunch with a scarf over her head and no gloves, the executive-to-be wears a smart hat and gloves." Similarly, trying something a little different can help to get you noticed. "When every other girl in the office has decided to wear her hair up or teased or straight to the shoulders – that's the time for you to achieve a new and distinctive look."
KEEP IT SIMPLE
Forget fussy hair, faddy accessories or bold make-up: chic, simple and classic works best. Cautions Head: "Extremism in make-up, hairdos, length of skirts or brilliance of colour are likely to be frowned on. The interviewer will think, 'This one has just cooked too long – she's overdone in every way'." Instead, she suggests that "simplicity and good taste are the rules in applying for any job, plus the immaculate grooming that speaks louder than words about how neat and careful a girl will be in her work".
• How to Dress for Success is published by V&A Publishing, priced £9.99
