A VISIT to Valvona and Crolla's long-established Elm Row emporium is like stepping into Santa's grotto.
En route through the delicatessen to the caffe at the back, you pass shelf after shelf of the most fascinating and tempting wine and foodstuffs Italy has to offer, while overhead hang hams, peppers and all manner of colourful produce.
So that by
the time you take your table for lunch, your tastebuds are ready to be rewarded with gifts.
Thus I found myself in suitably anticipatory mood this week, having dodged the tram works to get to Leith Walk.
Of course, word of Scotland's oldest family-run deli, which celebrates its 75th birthday next year, has spread far and wide.
Daughter number one is already at the table with her young son, having taken the train from Newcastle for the occasion.
An invitation to Santa's Edinburgh grotto is hard to turn down, even if it means a three-hour return journey.
Friendly and efficient service sees them already installed in high chair and seat on my arrival, eating a pacifying bowl of minestrone from the specially prepared and speedily served children's menu in his case, and drinking juice and checking the typical Italian menu in hers.
Tuesday is surprisingly quiet, but all that changes at weekends and at Festival time, during which V&C is a dedicated venue number 67, specialising in music. But that's not until August. Today's entertainment comes from admiring the colourful artworks that hang for sale along the walls of the elongated, well-lit room which accommodates around three dozen tables; and deciding what Italian delights to choose to eat.
It's easy in my case - Bresaola con Parmigiano, freshly sliced Valtelina bresaola air-dried beef, served with rocket, lemon and freshly grated parmesan. Simple but delicious, with a selection of diverse fresh breads and extra virgin olive oil.
Lucy worries if she has over-reached herself when her starter of V&C antipasto arrives - an enormous dish of cured meats, fonteluna sausage, Mozzarella di bufala, Italian tomatoes, roast vegetables, bruschetta, olives and rocket.
In fact, it looks big enough not to need the main dish she has already ordered, but she despatches it with admirable gusto - that's my girl.
All this to the accompaniment of a simple glass of Garganega white wine from the Verona province.
Widely grown in north east Italy, it is traditionally the base of the Soave blend known the world over. But despite its more usual workmanlike role, this one tastes surprisingly crisp with hints of almond.
Having packed away her antipasto, my fellow diner is not going to change her mind about the grilled polenta with spicy Italian paesano sausages served with sauteed spinach which follows, and is mighty glad she stuck with the homely choice.
With a return to the office in store, I opted for the lighter primi piatti of ravioli filled with lobster and ricotta cheese in a homemade tomato and butter sugo, that had never seen a tin.
We passed on the dolci, but young Luke's eyes lit up like a Christmas tree when he spied the colourful iced cakes on the counter, and immediately insisted on the pink one. That got his seal of approval, too.
All in all, the bill of £57.60p is not cheap, but then Christmas never is. And of course, you can't resist stopping at the deli counter on the way out to plan something for dinner.
V&C have even got that angle covered, and if you can't get to them because of parking restrictions during the tram works, they will deliver to you.
See, Santa does exist.
THE BILL• Bread £2.50
• Child's soup £1.75
• Antipasto £11.95
• Bresaola £8.95
• Ravioli £10.75
• Polenta and salsicce £13.75
• 2 Organic apple juices £4.20
• Glass Garganega £3.75
TOTAL: £57.60Quality *****
Menu choice ****
Surroundings ***
Service ****
Value ***
•
Valvona and Crolla, 19 Elm Row, 0131-556 6066The full article contains 673 words and appears in Edinburgh Evening News newspaper.
