NO WONDER the glories of Kilmelford are known to so few. No matter which way you look at it, you're invariably feeling queasy by the time you hit the stretch of coastline south of Oban and north of Lochgilphead.
Come from the south, around through Inveraray and then up the coast, and you will find yourself careering along a dangerously winding rollercoaster of a road that seems designed to induce chronic travel sickness. Arrive from Oban, to the north, and t
he chances are that your standing heart-rate will be up in triple figures after you've trailed along behind someone hauling a knackered old caravan at an unfeasibly slow rate along the not-so-bonnie banks of Loch Lomond.
As for the coastline off the east of Jura, sure, the yacht havens at Croabh and Ardfern are well known to the sailing fraternity. And yep, the longstanding excellence of the Crinan Hotel has ensured that this is an area that has been crawled all over by ardent foodies. But for most of the population of the central belt, this pristine stretch of coast remains a well-kept secret.
For those gilded few whose families have holidayed in the area since the days when you took a dip in the sea from the back of a horse-drawn bathing caravan, the difficulty of getting to this remote part of Argyll is all part of the charm. It's what keeps everyone else away.
But here's a word from the recently wise: get used to the temporary unpleasantness involved in getting to Melfort village, and luxuriate in one of the most unspoilt regions of Scotland. Few other areas of the country can match the combination of stunning scenery, lush green coastline and history – this is where the Scotti landed when they invaded from Ireland – that makes this corner of the country so compelling.
I was there to visit a small restaurant with a burgeoning local reputation, The Shower of Herring. Former baker John Bowman has built up a local client base after he and his wife Jean arrived from the nearby Connel Bridge Hotel seven years ago. A bluff, 60-something Lancastrian, he's one of those extrovert chefs who regularly comes out to chat with his customers – but then good cooks rarely mind mingling with their guests.
On the evening we visited his 40-cover restaurant, which occupies the second floor of a building that was once a gunpowder factory, we arrived just as a 20-strong party celebrating a 70th birthday was leaving. Their chat was all positive. "Make sure you pick the crayfish tails," said one as she passed us. "The scallops are great," gushed another.
As you might expect in an area that has a thriving small-scale fishing industry, this part of the country produces some remarkably good seafood, so I chose the local seafood soup to start. Matthew, who lives nearby and is more prone to fish overload, opted for a mushroom risotto. It proved an inspired choice: filling, meaty and nicely al dente, it was the perfect antidote to the chill that was gradually drawing in. My soup, however, was nothing out of the ordinary. For some reason I had expected a bouillabaisse, but instead got a large bowl of something that was more like a broth, with chunks of fish and prawns. It was good enough, but not what I'd bargained for.
Our main courses, however, were a step up in quality. My hefty serving of saddle of venison with haggis was not just perfectly hung meat, but prepared and cooked with a deft hand. Matthew's scallops were huge and succulent – faultless, in fact.
We rounded off with an outstanding bowl of chilled, freshly made rice pudding with apricot sauce, and a beautifully moist prune-and-ginger pudding with toffee sauce, before wandering down to the shore to take in the view over to the islands of Luing and Jura. It was a perfect end to a meal that turned out to be worth travelling for.
VITAL STATISTICS
The Shower of HerringMelfort Village, Kilmelford, by Oban, Argyll (01852 200345,
www.showerofherring.co.uk)
Out of pocket Starters £4.65–£8.45; main courses £7.70–£17.45; puddings £4.90; cheese £5.10
Rating 6.5/10
The full article contains 718 words and appears in Scotland On Sunday newspaper.
