Mountain Rescue celebrates its 75th anniversary this year, something worth bearing in mind when venturing into the hills this month. Scotland's 26 rescue teams, made up of volunteers who are on call pretty much 24/7, have saved the lives of countless people on Scotland's peaks since 1933.
I'm thinking of them, not because I've ever had to call them out but simply because it is amazing that they are willing to risk their own safety for walkers or climbers who have got into a pickle often through a lack of preparation. Alright now I am
thinking of myself.
A clear February day saw us setting off on the excellent National Trust path that leads deep into the heart of the Torridon mountains and the awesome corrie, Coire Mhic Fhearchair of Beinn Eighe. The corrie was our goal, but the weather was great and we were tempted onwards and upwards to the high point of Ruadh-stac Mor. Our views of the spectacular Triple Buttress came and went as the cloud arrived and the weather deteriorated. We decided it was time to head down. Except we misread our map and descended into the wrong valley and found ourselves miles off course with perhaps an hour and a half of daylight left.
This is where the lack of preparation comes in. We do own two head torches, but they were in the hall cupboard. We had already scoffed the majority of our packed lunch and the complimentary chocolates from our hotel room, and the emergency Kendal mint cake and jumbo bag of peanuts which should have been at the bottom of my rucksack were still in the shops. We had water and two slightly mouldy tangerines.
In the event this was enough to see us off the mountain, a couple of hours later than intended, and in complete darkness. One of us was lightheaded through a lack of fuel and the other was mildly hysterical at the possibility of breaking an ankle while coming down the hill in the dark.
We approached reception for our key rather sheepishly, hoping the hotel staff hadn't noticed the lateness of the hour or indeed, the wild-eyed state we were in. Of course that's when we met Dan Rose-Bristow, the owner, who worked out our predicament with one glance. He immediately made us feel better, telling us people get lost on the Torridon range all the time, and we were not even the first couple to lose our way that day. We limped upstairs and marvelled at the comfort of our room, in particular, the slipper bath, before heading down to dinner for the 9pm sitting.
Still dehydrated, we eschewed our usual choice, a couple of appetite-sharpening gins and tonics, in favour of two pints of fresh orange and lemonade. To her eternal credit, the lovely bartender didn't blanch at the slightly odd request. We even drank the ice.
Having calmed down (guess who took the hysterical approach to getting off the hill) I could notice that there have been a few changes at the hotel since the last time I was here. The Loch Torridon Country House Hotel has become The Torridon in a rebranding exercise which was at pains to retain all that guests love about the historic hotel, while moving the business forward.
Loyal visitors generally cringe when they hear the word "modernisation" in connection with a favourite hotel, but they can be assured that the updates here are subtle. For example, although the downstairs lounge where you can peruse the menu and enjoy a pre-dinner drink has been redecorated in warm jewel tones, the fantastic whisky bar (320 malts at the last count) remains in its old home next door. There is new upholstery in the grand hall, but the cavernous stone fireplace is still there, burning welcome flames, and everyone still leaves their wet boots to dry out in front of it overnight.
The new name draws together all the aspects of the business. There's the hotel of course, but you can dine at the restaurant or the inn, try outdoor activities or stay at the Boat House. Dan and Rohaise Rose-Bristow, who took over the hotel from Rohaise's parents in 2002, are committed to developing the business to the highest standards.
Daniel is particularly proud of the restaurant, and rightly so, as the chefs use almost exclusively local produce, including fruit, vegetables and herbs grown in the hotel's two-acre kitchen garden, which also provides the glorious cut flowers for the house. The hotel has its own herd of Highland cattle and a multitude of chickens. If the Loch Torridon langoustines are on the menu, order them. They were utterly divine.
Head chef Kevin John Broome runs a sharp kitchen crew – before they are allowed to chop so much as an onion, new staff learn a healthy respect for the quality of the ingredients, meeting local suppliers and learning about the food.
It's important at the Torridon that guests thoroughly enjoy the dining experience. All are invited to e-mail Kevin any dietary requirements or special requests to chef@thetorridon.com
The industry has also recognised The Torridon, naming it Scottish Romantic Hotel of the Year at the 2008 Scottish Hotels of the Year Awards.
The grand turreted shooting lodge on the shores of Upper Loch Torridon is a romantic spot in itself, but the food, the cosy fires and the luxury of the bedrooms adds to the winning formula. The service is also worth mentioning. When you make a reservation, along with booking details you are sent information about pursuits you can try and contact information for Chris Wilson, the hotel's activities manager (and a mountain guide). You may also request synthetic pillows or wool blankets if the duck down duvets don't suit, and choose from four varieties of Molton Brown toiletries. It's this attention to detail which makes The Torridon shine.
We'll definitely be back, to see what else Dan and Rohaise dream up, and next time our rucksacks will be heavier – packed with spare food, clothes and, of course, those vital head torches.
Factfile The Torridon, Wester RossHOW TO GET THEREThe most direct route is via Inverness, not, as you might expect, up the west coast. Allow five hours from Edinburgh/Glasgow and 90 minutes from Inverness. The hotel is in Annat and not in Torridon Village. Stay on the main road (A896) from Kinlochewe for ten miles and follow signposts to the hotel.
WHERE TO STAYThe Torridon, Torridon, By Achnasheen, Wester Ross, tel: 01445 791242,
www.thetorridon.comA superior room costs £300 per night including dinner, bed and breakfast between June and September.
AND THERE'S MOREA five-course table d'hôte menu is available from £40 per person.
Scotsman Reader Holidays offer various breaks in Scotland. Tel: 0131-620 8400 or visit
www.holidays.scotsman.comThe full article contains 1154 words and appears in The Scotsman newspaper.
