A quality cut is not impossible

RISING fuel costs, food costs and mortgages have meant we've all been watching the pennies. As foodstuffs have risen in price, with beef up 35 per cent, one of the first things that shoppers tend to do is cut down on their weekly food spend, choosing cheaper alternatives. This can also mean that the quality of what we put in our mouths can go down.

To cut our grocery bills without scrimping on quality, learning where cuts of meat come from can prove invaluable. Beef was declared by the famous early 19th century French chef Marie-Antoine Careme as "the soul of cooking". For many, whether it is a hamburger or a roast, beef is seen as the ultimate meat.

Beef can still be enjoyed without breaking the bank. Cheaper and lesser known cuts of beef can provide a sumptuous, healthy and flavoursome meal, and knowing how to choose and cook these is an important part of the process.

Historically, before refrigeration meat was enjoyed in quantity only by the wealthy, while the poor had to make do with meat for special occasions.

In the modern age, with refrigeration, we place our plastic wrapped trays of proportioned meat into our supermarket trolleys where they compete for space with everything else in our weekly shop, such as the milk and tins of cat food. It is an emotionless exercise that does not tell us or make us choose where our meat has come from, how it was reared and husbanded before ending up in front of us at the table.

Today, we enjoy being able to buy smaller pieces of meat without thinking about it, but unfortunately many of us are stuck on the principles of buying beef that is lean and tender. It is often the "lesser cuts", however, that are the most interesting and flavoursome when cooked well.

Beef cattle are believed to have been domesticated about 8000 years ago in an area that is now Turkey. Beef is the meat from full-grown cattle that are usually about two years old. There are about 50 main breeds of cattle including Hereford, Shorthorn, Charolais and, of course, Aberdeen Angus.

Aberdeen Angus is world renowned for its flavour, tenderness and juiciness, and Scottish Aberdeen Angus is predominantly reared in the north-east of the country or in the Borders.

At my restaurant, we use such cuts as the 8oz fillet and the 20oz T-bone, but it is important to know that there are many other cuts available that can be used.

In layman's terms there are two types of beef – tough and tender. Think of beef as a muscle, then think of muscles that work hard – they get tougher, due to more connective tissue, gristle and collagen. The further the meat is on a cow away from the hooves and horns the more tender it is.

It is very important, however, to note that the cuts taken from nearer the hooves and horns, such as short ribs, topside, neck and round steak are just as good. The only thing that changes is the method of cooking, which is more of a slow cook rather than frying or grilling, as the method breaks down the connective tissues and muscle fibres.

Methods of cooking that can be used for "lesser" cuts include braising, stewing and slow roasting.

Get to know your local butcher. Butchers can help with any questions that you may have. They can advise on cuts and quantity and they should be able to tell you all about the meat and where they got it from. The most important thing is they will sell you good meat.

There is a lot of "ordinary" meat out there as a result of dubious principles, such as efficiency and cheapness of supply. By consuming that meat we are doing a disservice to ourselves and to the animals. Buy the best meat you can afford, then cook it in the best possible way.

Beef cooking, moreover, should always be simple, resulting in a great meal that doesn't need to cost the earth.

• Robert Tiffin is restaurateur of the Sizzling Scot, 103-105 Dalry Road, www.sizzlingscot.co.uk, 0131-337 7744.
RECIPES

Beef Pot Roast (serves six)
Ingredients:

Tin chopped tomatoes
Olive Oil
2kg rolled beef brisket (trimmed)
750ml water
Stock cube, crumbled
250ml red wine
A liberal splash of brandy
2 onions quartered
3 crushed garlic cloves
2 bay leaves
Chopped parsley
6 carrots roughly chopped
2 tablespoons flour
Salt and pepper

Method:
Heat the oil in a deep, heavy-based saucepan. Add the seasoned beef and cook over medium high heat for approximately eight minutes until brown all over. Add all the ingredients except the carrots and the flour. Cover and bring to a simmer.

Cook on a low heat for one-and-a-half hours then add the carrots and cook for a further 30 minutes. Remove the beef, cover loosely with foil and leave to rest in a warm place for ten minutes.

Mix the flour with some water to form a smooth paste. Add the paste to the mix and stir until the sauce thickens, then cook for three minutes and season again. Carve the beef and serve with the sauce.

Meatballs (serves four-six)
Ingredients:
1lb of mince
1 small onion peeled and quartered
2 tablespoons of flour
A few basil leaves
Salt and pepper
1 egg beaten with a drop of milk
Salt and pepper

Method:
Combine the mince and onion in a food processor until mixture is fine. Add the basil and flour. Add the milk and egg mix.

With clean floured hands roll into small balls. Place in fridge for 20 minutes to firm.

Pan fry until brown on both sides and then place in oven at 180C for around 20 minutes. Serve with a mixed salad and if you have the time, homemade potato salad is also great.