Comfort zone

Spring is on its way but it's still winter in the kitchen, so get cosy with slow-cooked pork belly and a sunshine dessert

IF THE old adage that March comes in like a lion and goes out like a lamb is true, we should be looking forward to some more spring-like weather in the not too distant future.

At the moment, however, we're probably still craving the comfort of root vegetables, winter cabbage and slow-cooked meats, so this week I have chosen a menu that will satisfy those cravings while delivering a light crunchiness and tang that heralds spring.

Simplicity is key here but, as always with raw ingredients, they must be top quality. They are all easily available from your store cupboard, local butcher, fishmonger and supermarket, and the menu requires very little effort except that you will need to plan ahead a little as the pork has to be pressed lightly overnight.

Coffee mash may sound bizarre but it's a perfect balance with the sweet, crispy pork belly and soft, buttery cabbage.

For the mousse, I would recommend a good organic yoghurt from the supermarket. To accompany it, buy some top-quality ice-cream and think of spring.

Geoff Malmedy is the head chef at Abstract restaurant and Contrast brasserie, Glenmoriston Town House Hotel, Ness Bank, Inverness (01463 223777, www.abstractrestaurant.com)

SALMON TARTARE WITH APPLE AND HORSERADISH

Serves four

200g fresh salmon fillets, with bones and skin removed
40g smoked salmon
4 tbsp mayonnaise
1 tbsp small capers (often sold as lilliput capers)
1 heaped tbsp creamed horseradish
1 tbsp fresh, chopped parsley
juice of half a lemon
1 tbsp chopped shallot
1 small (or half a large) Granny Smith apple, peeled and finely chopped

Finely chop the fresh and smoked salmon, then mix in the rest of the ingredients. Season.

Serve with finely sliced cucumber drizzled with a little vinaigrette.

PORK BELLY WITH COFFEE MASH

Serves four

1 onion, chopped
3 carrots, chopped
800g pork belly
2 star anise
50ml honey
50ml soy sauce

For the mash

75ml cream
50g instant coffee
300g mashed potato
half a savoy cabbage
60g lardons

Fry the onion and carrot in a little vegetable oil until brown.

Add the pork belly and star anise, pour over the honey and soy sauce and pour in enough water to come halfway up the meat. Cover with foil and cook at 160¼C/gas 2 for two to three hours.

Remove the pork from the tray, strain and reserve the cooking juices. Cover the meat with cling film and press lightly overnight.

The following day, remove the skin and cut the pork into four pieces. Pan fry until golden.

Meanwhile, heat the cream with the coffee, add the mash and heat through. Warm the reserved cooking juices.

Finely, shred the cabbage and cook in butter with the lardons.

Serve the pork belly on top of the cabbage with the coffee mash and spoon over the cooking juices.

YOGHURT MOUSSE WITH MILK CHOCOLATE ICE-CREAM

Serves four

8g leaf gelatine
250g natural yoghurt
70g caster sugar
100g whipped cream
milk chocolate ice-cream to serve

Soak the gelatine in cold water until soft, then squeeze out any excess water.

Gently warm the yoghurt, being careful not to overheat it or it will curdle. Add the sugar and gelatine and mix until melted.

Allow to cool then fold in whipped cream.

Pour into a shallow cake tin lined with cling film, allow to set slightly and cut into four portions. You could also pour into glasses.

Serve with a scoop of milk chocolate ice-cream.