Food: Friend or fowl

Don't be afraid – game birds are as easy to cook as chicken and much more likely to impress your guests

Photograph: Paul Dodds

SOME ingredients seem to strike fear into the heart of the home cook. High on the list, along with certain types of fish, are game birds. Pheasant, partridge and pigeon are names that seem to bring visions of culinary disaster to mind.

My main course for a spring dinner party is based around guinea fowl. These birds are bred all year round and are readily available from good butchers and some larger supermarkets.

High in protein and low in cholesterol, they have a flavour somewhere between chicken and pheasant. As with any farmed bird, you should look for the free-range label.

The meat can be drier than chicken but if you poach the breast in chicken stock and then crisp the skin in a frying pan, it will remain moist and succulent.

Match the dish with a fruity couscous, to reflect the guinea fowl's North African origins, and your reputation for culinary skill will be assured. If it all seems a little too challenging, rest assured this recipe works just as well with chicken.

• Geoff Malmedy is the head chef at Abstract restaurant and Contrast brasserie, Glenmoriston Town House Hotel, Ness Bank, Inverness (01463 223777, www.abstractrestaurant.com)

SMOKED MACKEREL AND HORSERADISH WITH PICKLED BEETROOT

Serves four

3 smoked mackerel, skin and bones removed; 4 tbsp mayonnaise; 1 tsp hot creamed horseradish; 1/2 granny smith apple, skinned and finely chopped; juice of half a lime; 2 large pickled beetroots

Break the mackerel into pieces, put into a bowl and mix in the mayonnaise, horseradish, apple and lime juice. Season to taste with salt and black pepper, taking care not to overdo the salt as the mackerel is already salty. Slice the beetroots thinly, lay decoratively around four plates and place the mackerel mixture in the centre.

If you fancy it, place a few salad leaves on top. This would also make a nice summer lunch served with boiled potatoes and mixed salad.

GUINEA FOWL BREAST WITH APRICOTS AND COUSCOUS

Serves four

4 breasts of guinea fowl (or chicken); 250ml chicken stock; 40g dried apricots; 100g instant couscous; 1 tbsp chopped parsley; 1 tbsp chopped coriander; 1 tbsp chopped mint; 1 tbsp olive oil; 25g butter; juice of 1 lemon; salt and pepper

Poach the guinea fowl breasts in the chicken stock very gently, then remove and cover with cling film. Pour the chicken stock over the apricots and leave for 20 minutes. Remove the apricots and chop them into 1cm cubes. Bring the stock back to the boil and pour over the couscous in a bowl, then cover with cling film and leave to stand for ten minutes. Stir in the apricots and herbs, add the olive oil and lemon juice and check for seasoning.

Heat some olive oil in a frying pan and add the guinea fowl skin-side down. Cook until crispy, add the butter and season to taste. Serve on top of the couscous and drizzle with a nice, fruity extra-virgin olive oil.

VANILLA AND CARAMEL BAVAROIS WITH APPLE CARPACCIO

Serves four

Vanilla bavarois

5 leaves gelatine; 1 vanilla pod, split lengthways; 500ml milk; 4 egg yolks; 70g caster sugar; 500ml whipped cream

Soften the gelatine in a little cold water. Add the vanilla pod to the milk and bring to the boil, then remove from the heat and allow to cool slightly. Remove the vanilla.

Whisk the egg yolks and sugar together and pour in the milk, return to the heat and cook gently, stirring continuously until the mixture coats the back of a spoon.

Squeeze the water out of the gelatine. Stir it into the egg until it dissolves. Allow to cool until the mixture is almost set, then fold in the cream. Pour into a square, bottomless mould to come halfway up the sides and put into the fridge to set.

Caramel bavarois

5 leaves gelatine; 500g granulated sugar; 500ml milk; 4 egg yolks; 70g caster sugar; 500ml whipped cream

Soften the gelatine in a little cold water as before. Melt the granulated sugar in 60ml water and turn up the heat until it turns a golden caramel colour. Remove from the heat and allow to cool slightly, then slowly and carefully add the milk (be very careful as the caramel may split). Return to the heat and stir until the caramel is dissolved in the milk.

Whisk the egg yolks and the caster sugar together, pour on the caramel mixture and return to the heat. Cook gently, stirring continuously until the mixture coats the back of the spoon.

Squeeze the water out of the gelatine. Stir it into the caramel mixture until dissolved. Allow to cool until almost set then fold in the whipped cream. Pour on top of the vanilla bavarois and return to the fridge until set.

Apple carpaccio and caramel

200g caster sugar; 1 vanilla pod, sliced lengthways; 500g granulated sugar; 3 granny smith apples, 2 very finely sliced and 1 chopped into 2cm cubes

Make a vanilla caramel sauce by placing the caster sugar and vanilla in 300ml of water. Bring to the boil then remove from the heat and set aside until cold.

Melt the granulated sugar in 60ml of water then turn up the heat until the mixture turns into a golden caramel. Remove from the heat and pour half of it on to a lightly greased baking sheet and allow to set firm.

Place the chopped apple cubes in the remaining melted caramel to coat. Once set, break up the tray of caramel into small chunks.

To serve, lay the thinly sliced apple on a plate, with the bavarois, cut into oblongs, on top. Spoon over the vanilla caramel sauce and then scatter with the shattered chunks of set caramel. Garnish with the apple cubes and a few sprigs of mint.