Food: Talking Italian

Vegetarians cheesed off with dull salads will relish these gourmet Mediterranean dishes from a restaurant in the Umbrian hills

ITALIAN cooking offers an escape unlike any other type of cuisine. When the deep fragrance of fresh rosemary, oregano, and the aroma of sizzling tomatoes fills the kitchen, the smell alone is capable of transporting the chef (and anyone else lucky enough to get a sniff) off to the warm and inviting climate of the Mediterranean.

While tender veal and thick lasagne may spring to mind, those wanting to maximise the health benefits of Italian cooking should try a vegetarian option, according to Malu Simões and Alberto Musacchio, proprietors of the Country House Montali. Serving only gourmet vegetarian dishes, their tile-roofed inn in the Umbrian hills has become a haven for food tourists over the last 14 years – and not just with vegetarian diners. Using fresh ingredients and rustic Italian recipes, Brazilian-born Simões has refined traditional dishes into contemporary masterpieces that are big on showcasing the flavours of local produce. Using carefully picked cheeses, generous helpings of fresh fruit, vegetables, delicate pastas and pastries, she has built up a reputation as one of the best vegetarian chefs in the world.

These easy recipes don't stint on taste and emphasise the health benefits of some of our world's superfoods – the cleansing powers of beetroot, the high fibre content of aubergines, the antioxidant properties of parsley and the high level of omega-3 fatty acids in walnuts. And with the addition of tangy lemon juice, salty capers and lots of luscious chocolate, there is lots to savour.

• The Vegeterranean by Malu Simões and Alberto Musacchio, published by Simon & Schuster, £25

Carpaccio di Rapa Rossa

An elegant and impressive beetroot carpaccio, this appetiser can be prepared in minutes. The sweetness of the beetroot is complemented by strong cheeses and black pepper, while the sharpness of the rocket adds to the interesting blend of flavours and textures.

Serves five

330g beetroot, parboiled
lemon juice
48g walnuts, chopped
3 tbsp fresh parsley, chopped
salt and pepper, to taste
extra-virgin olive oil
60g creamy goat's cheese
60g mid-aged goat's cheese
100g rocket

Slice the beetroot into thin discs using a mandolin. (Wear disposable gloves if you have any, as the beetroot will stain your fingers.)

Decoratively place the discs on individual plates to form larger circles. Place one round in the centre of each. Drizzle with lemon juice and sprinkle the walnuts, parsley, salt, pepper and olive oil over the top.

Using a teaspoon, place small dollops of creamy goat's cheese on the beetroot. Sprinkle over grated mid-aged cheese. Add a small handful of rocket. Sprinkle with a little more salt and pepper, drizzle with a few drops of olive oil and serve.

Pasticcio di Menanzane

Aubergine tart served with a caper parsley sauce. This is a great dish for any special occasion. The tart blends with the salty caper sauce in a fusion of pure pleasure.

Serves eight

Pasticcio

3 aubergines, peeled and cut into 5mm cubes
200g scamorza cheese (or mozzarella), cut into 5mm cubes
2 eggs, lightly beaten
40g grated parmesan
2 garlic gloves, mashed
1 tbsp oregano
salt and pepper, to taste

Soak the cubed aubergines in cool water for 10 minutes. Drain, squeeze and place in a large pot over a high heat. Cook the aubergine by itself, stirring occasionally, until softened and nearly dry. Cool to room temperature. Fold in the scamorza, eggs, grated parmesan, garlic and oregano and mix well. Season with salt and black pepper. Line the bottom of a 23 cm (9 inch) spring-form tin with parchment paper and grease lightly. Spoon the mixture into the tin and, using a fork, spread evenly. Set aside.

Caper parsley sauce

1 tbsp capers
2 tbsp parsley
extra-virgin olive oil, to cover

Wash and rinse the capers. Chop with the parsley, then combine with olive oil in a small bowl. Set aside.

To serve

Half an hour before serving, bake the pasticcio at 180¼C/gas 4 for 25 minutes. Remove from the tin and cut into wedges. Serve immediately, topping with a tablespoon of caper parsley sauce.

Torta di Cioccolato e Noci

Chocolate and nut cake. A blend of soft, melting flavours that you can enjoy at any time or even use as a base for a birthday cake with a chocolate ganache topping.

Serves 12

butter and flour for dusting
4 eggs, whites and yolks separated
200g sugar
2 drops vanilla extract
100g walnuts, chopped
100g almonds, chopped
200g bittersweet chocolate, chopped

Line a spring-form 28cm tart tin with parchment paper. Butter and flour the surface. Preheat the oven to 175¼C/gas 4. Whisk the egg yolks, sugar and vanilla together until frothy. Using a mixer, whisk the egg whites with a pinch of salt to stiff peaks. Gently fold the two egg mixtures together. Fold in the nuts and chocolate in four batches and immediately pour into the tin. Using a spatula, gently smooth out the top, then bake for 25 minutes. Remove from the oven and set aside to cool completely. Serve at room temperature with a dusting of icing sugar and a generous dollop of whipped cream. (For a gluten-free version, leave out the dusting flour, using parchment paper as an alternative.)