Let pesto give meals extra zing

IN these environmental and health conscious times, it is becoming increasingly accepted that cooking should reflect the seasons. So with the weather doing its best to be spring like, and a long hot summer hopefully just around the corner, most of us will be thinking about lighter dishes with the emphasis on natural flavours and fresh ingredients.

If you're finding it hard to break out of winter's "meat and two veg" mindset, you could try looking through an Italian recipe book for dishes that are strong on flavour and light of touch. Somewhere in every Italian cookbook you should find a recipe using pesto.

This traditional blend of fresh basil, garlic, parmesan and pine-nuts has been made in Italy for centuries, so it's strange to think that 25 years ago most of us in this country had never heard of it. Now it's as ubiquitous and well-loved as ketchup or mustard.

You'll certainly find pesto in some form on many restaurant menus across the city, from pasta and risottos to salad dressings; a marinade for chicken or lamb or a frequent accompaniment to fish.

While buying a jar from your local deli is perfectly acceptable, you really should try making your own. Once you've perfected your own version you will say goodbye to the shop-bought varieties.

The main ingredient is basil, which you want to be as fresh and as pungent as possible. Basil is probably the western world's favourite herb, thanks to its strong mint and nutmeg flavour, as well as its versatility.

This time of year is perfect for growing basil, either outside or inside. Just make sure it gets as much sunshine as possible.

Traditionally pesto would have been made with a mortar and pestle, but these days you can get away with using a blender.

Take your washed and dried basil leaves and blend them with some garlic and a little sea salt until you have a creamy paste. Add the pine nuts and finally the parmesan. Scrape out into a container, seal carefully and put into the fridge. That should all take you less than a minute and your pesto will keep for at least a week.

If you present a chef with a classic recipe he will inevitably try to find a different way to make it, and over the past few years many variations of pesto have appeared.

Red pesto, using sundried tomatoes and red peppers, is one of the most popular supermarket varieties, and it is especially good with pasta dishes, steaks or drizzled over your cheese-on-toast.

Herbs, such as rocket or coriander, are often substituted for the basil in other versions, and different types of nuts such as walnuts or cashews can take the place of the pine nuts.

Another interesting and seasonal variation uses samphire grass – a salty, asparagus-like plant. At this time of year you should be able to get some from your local fishmonger. When blanched, then chopped or blended through a traditional basil pesto, it provides a sharp and tangy accompaniment for white fish.

Asparagus, spring onions, spinach and watercress are also in season just now, all of which can, and do, appear in pesto.

Spring lamb will be available shortly, for which pesto is an ideal match, whether as a marinade, a sauce or just on the side of the plate. Try mixing pesto through minced lamb to make meatballs or patties for a fresh taste of spring.

While the basic ingredients for classic pesto are available all the year round, spring is the ideal time to try the recipes and variations using fresh, local produce.

For something a little more left-field but just as seasonal, think about strawberries. Basil, black pepper and strawberries have long been considered happy culinary partners. Substitute the garlic for the fruit and use almonds instead of pine nuts and you have a fresh and interesting complement for your breakfast croissant.

• Andy McGregor is owner and head chef of BlondeRestaurant, 75 St Leonard's Street, 0131-668 2917


Strawberry pesto
Ingredients
50g flaked almonds, lightly toasted
50g grated fresh parmesan
50g fresh basil, washed and dried
2 tsp olive oil
sea salt and freshly ground black pepper
7-8 fresh strawberries, hulled

Method:
Place the basil, parmesan and almonds in a food processor and blend into a paste. Add the strawberries and olive oil, blend and add salt and pepper to taste. Seal carefully and refrigerate until needed.

Lamb and pesto meatballs (serves 4)
Ingredients:
500g finely minced lamb
100g fresh basil, washed and dried
5 cloves garlic, chopped
50g pine nuts
100g fresh grated parmesan
zest from one lemon, grated
2 tbsp olive oil
salt and freshly ground black pepper
breadcrumbs

Method:
Preheat the oven to 200C. In a food processor combine the basil with the garlic, pine nuts and parmesan.

Add the olive oil and blend, then season well with salt and pepper. In a mixing bowl, add the pesto to the minced lamb and lemon zest and mix thoroughly, adding breadcrumbs to bind into a stiff mixture. To check the seasoning, take a small piece of the mix and microwave for 30-45 seconds and taste. Adjust seasoning if necessary. Shape into balls and place on an oiled baking tray.

Place in the oven for 20 mins and serve with noodles or mashed potato.