Sweet dreams for the table

AS a nation of sweet-lovers, it stands to reason that chocolate is one of our favourite foodstuffs. There's surely no other item in your larder that inspires as much passion or provides as many alternatives when it comes to sweets and desserts.

From chocolate milk to chocolate mousse, there are countless recipes to keep the chocoholics satisfied. However, we could perhaps be accused of being a little unimaginative when it comes to cooking with the world's most popular sweet ingredient.
So take some inspiration from other countries and think about using chocolate in savoury dishes as well as the more obvious puddings.

You'll find that gastronomic big-hitters such as France and Italy aren't afraid to use chocolate – especially combined with other strong flavours in rustic dishes using meats such as rabbit or hare. Sweden has a recipe for chocolate and coffee lamb.

In hotter regions such as Central and South America it's relatively common to use chocolate in main courses such as stews and chilli, in order to add richness to the flavour as well as counteracting the spices in some of the hotter recipes.

One of our mainstays in the restaurant is a rich, French-style casserole of venison cooked with chocolate, red wine and grain mustard. Eyebrows are often raised at this combination of ingredients, but the chocolate completes the dish with a dark, rich texture.

The secret to cooking with chocolate is to select a good quality dark variety and use it fairly sparingly. Use too much and you may find that when the dish starts to cool down on the plate the chocolate starts to solidify.

Another point to consider is that chocolate, while sweet, is also quite bitter, so it's usually necessary to add something else sweet, such as honey, to balance the flavours.

The best way to melt chocolate is in a bowl over a pot of simmering water, taking care to keep the bottom of the bowl clear of the water and let the steam do the work. A microwave on half power will work pretty well if you switch on for short bursts and stir the chocolate in between heating.

With both methods, remove it from the heat immediately once it's sufficiently melted.

I recently discovered an interesting recipe for chocolate, chilli and lime bread which is fantastic toasted and served as a starter with smoked salmon or gravadlax.

For those who've never tried making their own bread, it's a surprisingly easy and satisfying pastime. Just remember to follow the recipe accurately and wash your fingers carefully after chopping the chillies.

If you're a fan of carrot cake, have a shot at making chocolate and beetroot cake. A dark chocolate sorbet is a great accompaniment for summer fruits and an interesting alternative to ice cream. For an unusual, fun dessert you could try marinating chillies in vodka then dipping in melted chocolate for a distinctly sweet and spicy experience.

Whatever your preference, when it comes to eating or cooking with "the food of the gods", with such variety of options, there is really no excuse for a lack of imagination.

• Andy McGregor is proprietor and head chef of Blonde Restaurant, 75 St. Leonards St, 0131-668 2917

RECIPES
Casserole of venison with red wine, grain mustard and dark chocolate (serves 4-6)

Ingredients
900g venison haunch, diced
3 or 4 medium carrots, peeled and chopped
Half a celery, washed and chopped
1 small turnip, peeled and chopped
1 medium onion, sliced
4 cloves garlic, chopped
500ml red wine
500ml beef or game stock
200ml veal stock (optional)
4 tbsp coarse grain mustard
200g clear honey
1 tsp ground nutmeg
100g dark chocolate, broken into small pieces
2 or 3 bay leaves
50g butter
olive oil

Method:
In a large heavy-based pot melt the butter with a little olive oil. Add the chopped garlic and nutmeg and sauté gently for one minute then add the diced venison, turn the heat up and stir briskly until sealed.

Add the wine, stock and bay leaves and top up with water if necessary to cover the meat. Bring to the boil then add the honey and simmer for 20 mins. Add the vegetables and simmer for another 40 mins, or place in a covered dish and cook in a medium oven for one hour, until the meat is tender. Lastly, stir in the chocolate and cook for a further five mins.

Chocolate, chilli and lime bread
Ingredients:
500g strong white flour
1 lime
1 red chilli, chopped (seeds optional)
150g dark chocolate, chopped into small pieces
25g dried active yeast
25g light brown sugar
50ml olive oil
Warm water

Method:
Pre-heat the oven to 180C. Place the yeast and brown sugar in a tub and add a little of the warm water. Mix together then place somewhere warm for ten minutes to allow the yeast to activate.

Place the flour in a mixing bowl with the chocolate and the chopped chilli. Peel or slice the zest from the lime, chop finely then add to the flour. Remove the pith from the lime then chop up the flesh and add to the flour. Add the olive oil and mix together.

Once the yeast has frothed up add to the flour. Mix carefully adding more warm water a little at a time until the dough is moist and firm but not sticky. Roll into a ball, cover with a damp tea-cloth and place somewhere warm for 15 mins to prove.

Press the dough into a greased loaf tin then place in the oven for 30 mins.

Check by running a knife through the centre of the loaf, if it comes out clean then remove the bread from the oven and turn out on to a rack to cool.

Once thoroughly cooled, slice and brush with olive oil then toast under a grill.

Serve with a fish starter such as smoked salmon, gravadlax or mackerel pate.