Time to feast

SCOTLAND produces the best lamb in the world, and we should make the most of it, especially now, when it is mature. A leg of lamb makes the perfect main course for a special occasion – and lunch or dinner on Easter Sunday is about as special an occasion as we encounter during the year.

A leg weighing about 7lb/3.2kg feeds eight people comfortably, but don't be put off from buying one if you number only five or six, because cold roast lamb is as good as hot, and shepherd's pie made with the whizzed-up leftover meat is delicious. So a leg of lamb can do two or three meals, depending on the numbers.

What concerns most people, however, is just what to serve as accompaniments. Many think that a roast means last-minute hassle, but it really need not. So today I suggest three recipes to go with a roast leg of lamb, none of which mean fussing in the kitchen – apart from the business of actually carving the meat itself.

How long you roast lamb for depends on how well-done you like it, but a calculation of 15 minutes per lb/450g will give you a nice pink colour. Roast for a few minutes more if you like your meat less pink. For slow roast leg of lamb, give it half an hour at 220C/450F/Gas Mark 7, then reduce the heat to moderate and cook for a further 11/2 hours.

Whichever method of cooking you choose, first season the meat with black pepper and a grinding of salt, and stud it with slivers of peeled garlic – this is easily done if you score the surface with several small, deep cuts.

Two flavours go particularly well with lamb – mint and rosemary. You will find both in the following recipes.

MINT AND LEMON SAUCE

This can be made at least two days in advance and kept, covered, in the fridge. Stir it up very well before using. This is much more delicious than a vinegary mint sauce.

SERVES 6

6oz/170g mint, the leaves stripped from the stalks (this looks a great amount, but it whizzes down in the food processor)

1 fat clove of garlic, skinned and diced

2 anchovy fillets, drained well from the oil in their tin

finely grated rind of 2 lemons

1/4 pint/140ml olive oil

about 15 grinds of black pepper – no need for salt, as the anchovies give enough saltiness

juice of 1 lemon

Put the mint leaves into a food processor with the garlic and anchovies and lemon rinds – though not the juice, yet – and whiz, gradually adding the olive oil. When all the oil is incorporated, whiz in the black pepper and the lemon juice. Scrape the contents of the processor into a bowl, cover, and store in the fridge. Stir the sauce well before handing the bowl around with the roast lamb.

ROSEMARY AND SESAME ROAST PARSNIPS, CARROTS AND SHALLOTS

The slight caramel flavour of roast root vegetables is enhanced by the flavour of the sesame seeds. The very small amount of balsamic vinegar just cuts through the sweetness.

SERVES 6

12 banana shallots (these are the larger ones), skinned

6 medium-sized carrots, topped, tailed and peeled

5 parsnips, topped, tailed, peeled and halved, then the fatter halves cut in half lengthways

4 tablespoons olive oil (or 3 tablespoons goose fat)

1 teaspoon flaky salt, such as Maldon

about 15 grinds of black pepper

3 sprigs of rosemary, about 3in/7cm each

3oz/85g sesame seeds

1 teaspoon of balsamic vinegar

Heat the oven to 200C/400F/Gas Mark 6. Put the prepared shallots, carrots and parsnips into a non-stick roasting tin. If you are using olive oil, rub this into the vegetables with your hands. If you are using goose fat, put it in the roasting tin in the oven until hot, then add the prepared vegetables, shaking the pan gently to make sure each piece of vegetable is well coated in the hot fat. Sprinkle over the salt and the black pepper. Roast for 15 minutes, then shuffle the pieces of vegetable around, lay the rosemary sprigs over them and replace the tin in the oven to roast for a further 15 minutes. Turn the vegetables once more, roast for a further 10 minutes then take the tin from the oven, and scatter the sesame seeds over the vegetables. Return the tin to the oven for another 10 minutes or so. Remove the rosemary sprigs, then add the teaspoon of balsamic vinegar to the sesame-topped vegetables and mix all together thoroughly. Tip the vegetables into a warmed serving dish, loosely cover with foil, and keep it warm in a low temperature oven, for up to an hour. This allows you to wash up the roasting tin well in advance of serving and sitting down to eat.

MOUSSELINE POTATOES

These smooth and creamy mashed potatoes make a very good texture contrast to the crispy roast root vegetables and the roast lamb.

SERVES 6

3lb/1.35kg potatoes such as Rooster, peeled and cut into even-sized chunks

1/2 pint/285ml milk, warmed with

3oz/85g butter (you can substitute Buttery Benecol and 1% for the butter and milk in this recipe)

1/2 teaspoon salt

about 15 grinds of black pepper

a good grating of nutmeg

2 egg yolks

2 tablespoons finely chopped parsley and mint leaves, mixed

Boil the peeled potato chunks in water until they are tender when stuck with a fork. Drain them well, then steam them dry over a gentle heat, before mashing them very well.

With a wooden spoon, beat the mashed potatoes vigorously, adding three-quarters of the warmed milk and melted butter. Then beat in the salt, pepper and nutmeg, adjusting to taste.

In a separate bowl, beat the egg yolks together, then beat them into the mashed potatoes – this may sound like hard work but, with a wooden spoon, it's nowhere near as tough as it sounds. Never be tempted to purée the potatoes in a food processor as it will render them to a glue-like consistency.

If you now tip the mashed potatoes into a non-stick saucepan you can cover it and leave the potatoes keeping warm for up to an hour. Shortly before serving, put the pan back on the stove, heat up the contents and beat in the remainder of the milk and butter mixture. Lastly, beat in the chopped mixed parsley and mint and scrape the potatoes into a warmed dish, for serving.

For details on Claire's three-day residential cookery demonstrations at Kinloch Lodge, tel: [phone] or visit www.claire-macdonald.com