IF there's one establishment which stands out more than most as a sign of the changing times down Leith, it is surely Roseleaf.
I used to enjoy the odd drink and game of pool there in its previous life as an old boozer, the Black Swan, when these parts were better known as a backdrop for Irvine Welsh vignettes rather than somewhere to enjoy chilled out pub grub.
Saturday n
ight was the second time I've eaten at the Roseleaf within the last six weeks. On both occasions I've failed to be wholly convinced by the fare, but nonetheless have fully enjoyed the experiences. And I'll undoubtedly go back for more.
The food is never going to knock you out, but it is good, honest fare prepared to order. And the owners' enthusiasm, which spills over into the decor and lends a little light-hearted humour to proceedings, makes it hard to stop yourself sliding into the easy ambience of the place.
From the "Mini Me Menu", me and an old Leith mucker of mine went for a Wee Soup to start. Billed as a predominately spinach concoction, it turned out to be a rich and very tasty mushroom soup, oily, rich and full of heart-warming flavour. Our portions arrived served in quaint old china tea cups, with tea spoons (the usual soup spoons had all been used and are apparently quirkier) and the only complaint is that the soup, whatever it was mostly made of, was served far too hot.
My first choice for a main, a very tasty sounding salad with duck breasts, was all out, as was the salmon dish, another of the daily specials on offer. So I opted for one of Roseleaf's staples, The Leafer, which boasts oven roasted vine tomatoes, funky beans, baked big mushrooms, wilted spinach & potato rosti topped with a poached free range egg and tasty toast. This was actually the biggest disappointment of the night, courtesy of too much toast and not enough flavour. In retrospect I should have gone the whole hog and added smokey bacon, porky sausage and black pudding, billed as The Big One.
Kelly had ordered one of the few specials which was actually still available, the dubiously titled 'Spicy Pork Loin', and it turned out to be a fine choice. The meat had a crisp charcoaled tang to it and sat atop a bed of well-flavoured noodles; in fact perfect pub grub.
With a fine choice of alternative easy eating dishes, there's bound to be something here to grab your fancy: heart warming highland porridge with raspberry ripple and cream, or blossom honey and banana (and a cheeky nip of whisky to warm your bones); gooey cheesy box with fiery onion chutney or a trio cheese board with oatcakes and tasty toast; the Roseleaf burgers, pasta surprise or veggie dish of the day, to name just a few.
You can also sit and enjoy a fine array of herbal teas, all served in those shabby chic china teapots and cups, or home-made ginger beer (with rum added to make a fine cocktail). Due to the muggy weather and possibly the fact the whole area seemed to be downing lagers just like the good old days, as the sun shone on Leith's final day of festival revelry,
we followed suit. My Kronenburg Blancs went down a treat, as did the impressive espressos and single malts to follow. On my last visit I'd asked for probably my favourite Islay malt, Caol Ila. They didn't have it but appeared very interested and volunteered to try and order some in. It would have been mightily impressive if this had been followed up, but the ten-year-old Ardbeg hit the spot nonetheless.
Meanwhile, Portugal were devouring Turkey at Euro 2008 on a screen above the bar. My view was almost completely obscured by a huge cheese plant perched on the end of said bar, but the Roseleaf is hardly a football-watching pub, qualifying instead as a fine venue for people-watching. Proving a popular haunt for actors, musicians and general bohemian-types, you're just as likely to vaguely recognise a face drinking at the well-stocked bar as any fall guys on the unobtrusive TV monitor. Changed days indeed down sunny Leith.
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Roseleaf, 23-24 Sandport Place, Leith, 0131 476 5268, www.roseleaf.co.uk The full article contains 740 words and appears in Edinburgh Evening News newspaper.
