Restaurant review: The Playwright

DUNDEE had just unveiled its new corporate logo – One City, Many Discoveries – when I was visiting. It has the rare virtue among such slogans of being completely true.

I discovered that Dundee has the stickiest streets in northern Europe. I discovered that some of Scotland's earliest examples of drama were first performed in Dundee, including a lost "comedy" by James Wedderburn about Dionysius the Tyrant. I discovered a seagull in the Overgate that had apparently learnt to smoke (it strutted, unsure whether to spit or swallow the dog-end in its beak, like a cross between a ned and a pterodactyl). I also discovered the Playwright, an absolutely charming little restaurant near the Dundee Rep.

Taking its name from the city's theatrical heritage and its proximity to the Rep, the Playwright is neat without being cosy, and offers everything from bar snacks up to an impressive à la carte. Whenever its name cropped up with locals, the eulogies were fulsome and sincere. I was told I had to try the rabbit; that the pineapple carpaccio was a revelation; that it gave a palpable hit to most restaurants I could name in Edinburgh. When we arrived for lunch, I realised that my visit was mis-timed: it was Dundee University's graduations week, so a special, slightly limited menu was in place in order to cover the high levels of demand. This also explained the adhesive qualities of the streets each morning.

The bar staff were exceptionally friendly as I waited for friends to arrive (one thing it's difficult to discover in Dundee is a city-centre parking space: they arrived over half an hour late). Despite our tardiness and the staff's busyness, there wasn't the slightest hint of disapproval. You might expect a graduation celebration to be mildly raucous, but the general quietness spoke volumes about what must have been on the plates. A restaurant that can deliver such excellent results, while coping with far more covers than an average Friday lunchtime, is well worth a train-trip back.

For a starter, I chose an old favourite: pigeon, teamed with a roasted artichoke heart, puy lentils and a balsamic reduction. The smoky artichoke was a clever and welcome companion to the intense game and nutty pulses. The only thing that distracted from complete absorption in the flavours was Brian Cox's giant eye looming in the mirror. Another nod to the dramatic arts, but the 6ft-high image makes the restaurant feel slightly like a David Lynch film set.

Jan had a combination of smoked and unsmoked salmon, with the currently ubiquitous pea-shoot salad and a citrus dressing that didn't quite offset the oiliness of a very healthy amount of fish.

I continued with game – though the rabbit was sadly unavailable – in the form of a supreme of guinea fowl with ratatouille, green beans, pepper sauce and almond potatoes. Guinea fowl can be both dry and bland, but this was neither. I was a little worried that the dishes had that "and a" quality, where a flurry of ingredients offsets unexceptional cooking; but every element pulled together in this dish. The succulent meat could handle the kick of the sauce and the garlicky tomatoes didn't overwhelm the beans. The almond potatoes were, bizarrely, the highlight. I'd never have thought of sprinkling toasted almonds on sauté potatoes, but it softened the whole dish wonderfully.

Jan's sea bass came with a very neatly diced mango and prawn salsa and red onion marmalade; again, a combination that threatened to heap Pelion on Ossa, but in fact chimed together in exciting ways. There was only one vegetarian option (it's available on request from the à la carte menu), and the goat's cheese tart looked like a puff-pastry pizza. Given the chef David Anderson's skills – he won Scottish Restaurant Chef of the Year 2005 – I'm content that he cooks what inspires him.

Desserts were slightly functional – again, the much-vaunted pineapple carpaccio was absent – and my summer pudding was fine, if lacking somewhat the brio of the earlier courses. A chocolate terrine, with ice-cream and berry sauce won plenty of plaudits; the cheeseboard was judicious – although the onion marmalade made a return appearance. That said, at least the soft cheeses were at room temperature, and not chiselled in slabs from the fridge.

The Playwright, like a playwright, has flourishes and closures, surprises and set-pieces. In it, I discovered a reason to return to Dundee at the soonest opportunity, to see what the staff can do when their hands aren't tied.


Vital statistics

The Playwright

11 Tay Square, Dundee (01382 223113, www.theplaywright.co.uk)

Pre-theatre lunch Two courses £16.95 Three courses £19.95

A la carte dinner Starters £7.95-£11.95 Main courses £18.95-£23.95 Desserts £5.95-£7.50

Rating 8/10