La Paz is Bolivia's capital city and translates as ´the peace´. Although its full title is Our Lady of the Peace, the irony in its shortened version is not lost on many. Built at 3,640m, it is the world's highest capital and is constructed around a canyon. The centre lays at the bottom and its narrow, steep streets rise up the sides. If the altitude doesn't give you a headache, the overwhelming bustle just might.
We arrived in La Paz from the salt flats and so we had acclimatised to the great altitude already. Whilst we were spared the headaches and general sickness that often accompanies such a height above sea level, we found that the smallest movements became an epic chore. At one point I became out of breath putting on my shoes, not good for the ego of one's fitness.
La Paz has a lot to offer the traveller in terms of sights and activities. We decided to spend an afternoon in the infamous witches market. Stall after stall displays a number of oddities including love potions, llama foetuses and bottles of San Pedro. The latter is a green, hallucinogenic liquid extracted from cactus of the same name. I must have hesitated at the stall for too long as the owner leaped out and began tempting me to buy some. 'Don't be afraid', he oozed, 'take a journey to the other side'. Despite my intrigue I politely declined and feigned interest in some llama foetuses in the shop next door. I was finding La Paz otherworldly enough.
The North Yungas road leads from the north east of La Paz to Coroico. It is roughly 69km long and in 1995 the Inter-American Development Bank christened it as 'the world's most dangerous road'. Clinging to the side of the canyon, on one side of the narrow road a sheer rock face rises to the heavens. On the other side, the rocks and shrubs give way to a perilous drop. At one point it was estimated that 200 - 300 people were dying on the road each year as their vehicles plunged over the edge. These days the route has an alternative, safer road that is utilised and the old stretch of track is left mostly to the thousands of tourists, myself included, that endeavour to mountain bike down it in search of thrills and some fabulous scenery.
The trip down the road took the most part of a day and whilst nerve-racking, it was an unbeatable experience. The mountain biking itself isn't difficult in terms of technique but with a 400ft drop directly to your left, the margin for error is zero. As the canyon opens up around the road, one is surrounded by lush jungle with spectacular views. Enjoyment of such vistas however is sobered by the crosses that punctuate the side of the road, marking the places were so many lost their lives.
At the bottom of the road in Coroico, I was relieved to be boarding a bus back to La Paz and out of danger, although none of the roads in La Paz could really be misconstrued at safe...
Gabriella Griffith is a freelance journalist chronicling her discoveries exclusively for scotsman.com. Watch this space for a series of tales to come of her world travels.
Views from The North Yungas
Looking down on La Paz, covered in cloud, from outskirts of the city
Views from The North Yungas
The North Yungas
Thrill-seeking bikers on The North Yungas
Witches market, La Paz
The full article contains 560 words and appears in scotsman.com newspaper.
