BACK in the 1960s, the Indian region of Goa was a hippie's nirvana thanks to secluded beaches that offered all manner of illicit pleasures. Fast forward to today and, in common with most of its former patrons, the region has grown more tranquil and mature.
Yet while its endless white coastline has become more tourist-friendly, like all true children of the 1960s Goa still has a glint in its eye. With a resident population of just 12,000, Canacona, in southern Goa, is small by city standards, but its nu
mbers are swelled by tourists in high season.
BEFORE YOU GO The Lonely Planet Goa guidebook (£12.99,
www.shop.lonelyplanet.com) contains a wealth of information on Canacona attractions and tips to help you to plan your trip.
Injections are a pain but unless you plan to spend your holiday in bed it's vital to get the necessary vaccinations – a minimum of tetanus, hepatitis A and B, typhoid and polio are recommended for all travellers, as is a course of malaria tablets. Also, you will need a tourist visa to get into India.
WHEN TO GO To see Canacona at its best, head there after the monsoons have finished – from late September. High season is from November to March, when temperatures peak at 33°C.
PLANES, TRAINS AND AUTOMOBILES The nearest airport is an hour away from Canacona, in Dabolim. Flights from Scotland start at £510 with British Airways (
www.britishairways.com). The easiest way to get to town is by taxi, but there are trains and buses to Canacona from the nearby village of Margao. When travelling around the city, hiring a car or bike is your best bet. You'll need to drive to see most attractions, and you'll quickly discover that Goan buses are unreliable at the best of times.
TOURIST TRAIL Palolem, nicknamed Paradise Beach, has been hailed as one of Goa's most picturesque locations. Its unique crescent-moon coastline is punctuated with local vendors selling goods from coconut-thatched huts. Get there early to claim your spot under a shady palm. Local boatmen also run dolphin-spotting excursions from here, but prices vary so shop around for the best deal before hopping aboard. The best time to go is in the early morning, from 6am to 8.30am.
To experience more wildlife, head to Cotigao Wildlife Sanctuary, a dense area of forest that is home to many species of animals including reptiles, monkeys and panthers. If you're feeling especially energetic, climb a ladder to reach the treetop shelter – it's worth it to witness the spectacular view.
GO NATIVE Experience Canacona's Hindi core at the Shree Mallikarjun Temple. This is where locals go to consult oracles known as 'kaul', who offer advice based on their interpretation of the patterns made by falling flower petals. Erected in the 16th century, its ornate gold, red and white buildings are the perfect setting for 'finding yourself'. Inside, look out for six intricately carved wooden pillars that depict religious stories. Go in February to witness the colourful Ratha Saptami chariot festival and see the temple in its full glory.
WHAT TO BUY Look out for local crafts for sale at stalls along the beaches. Prices are negotiable so don't be afraid to bargain your way to a good deal. Inland, you can find mini-bazaars selling everything from spices to clothing.
WHERE TO STAY If you're flush, enjoy five-star luxury at the modern InterContinental Lalit Goa Resort (
www.thelalit.com). The hotel looks out on to a private beach and comes with a spa, golf course and tennis courts. Rooms start at £132 a night. For those on a smaller budget, try the delightful Oceanic hotel (
www.hotel-oceanic.com), where rooms start at a more affordable £20.
EATING OUT Beachfront restaurants are known for setting up candlelit tables and playing live music. While seafood is extremely popular, don't fret if you're unsure about trying authentic Indian cuisine for the first time, since Canacona restaurants have a wide variety of international dishes. A good all-rounder is the Cool Breeze restaurant, which serves a range of Goan and continental food. An average meal for two costs just £4.
But if you're keen to experience traditional Goan flavours, go to the Dropadi restaurant, which serves fresh seafood cooked in Indian spices. And with a meal for two coming in at £5, you can afford to take a chance on sampling the local dishes.
NIGHTLIFE Rediscover Canacona's hippie culture by heading down to Paloma beach in the early evening. Relax on the sand while you listen to music being played from huts along the coast or spend the night in a beach bar taking in the ambience.
How do you keep the party going when there is a 10pm ban on loud music? Neptune Point resort, overlooking the beach, hosts open-air silent discos. After the curfew on loud music, revellers listen to tunes on headphones so the dancing doesn't have to stop – you can choose between three channels playing different DJs. If you're not much of a mover, there are fire dancers, tarot card readers and circus performers to watch – although the sight of hundreds of people bopping about, and often singing, without music is entertaining enough on its own. Silent Noise (
www.silentnoise.in) is at Neptune Point every Wednesday and Saturday night.
This article was first published in the Scotland on Sunday on November 1, 2009