NESTLING in the northernmost tip of the lesser Antilles, the tiny island of Nevis is a Caribbean secret that has a long, celebrated history of new discoveries. Spanning just 34 square miles and a stone's throw away from its sister island St Kitts, it was dubbed Nuestra Señora de las Nieves (Our Lady of the Snows) thanks to the snowlike crest of clouds that gather at the crown of its volcanic peak. The name was later abbreviated and anglicised.
Nevis may be one of the tiniest islands in the West Indies, but it is big on adventure. Arriving by air provides an awe-inspiring first impression with a vision of the green slopes of the plush Nevis Peak, the dormant volcano that now doubles up as
the island's geothermal energy source.
After landing on the island's single-runway airport, it wasn't long before we rumbled our way up the rocky road of the grand 3,232ft peak, slowing down at the "Monkey X-ing" signs along the way.
First stop was the colonial masterpiece that is the Hermitage Plantation Inn, a perfect mix of rustic chic and the kind of sparkling hospitality that can revitalise the weariest of travellers. The Hermitage is made up of a little village of pastel-coloured cottages draped in fairy lights, with the glorious backdrop of a lush landscape of mango, cashew and breadfruit trees.
There to greet us with a family-style welcome were the Lupinaccis, who have made this quaint hotel a home from home. Their attitude is simple: kick back, relax and enjoy the surroundings, and I wasn't going to disagree.
Following instructions, I rested on my hammock, breathing deeply on the light perfume of ginger flowers that filled the air, whiling away the time until dinner. This was a friendly, enjoyable affair where guests are encouraged to gather for rum punch on the balcony of the Hermitage's 340-year-old Great House, believed to be the Caribbean's oldest wooden structure, before the family serve them up a four-course culinary treat. At weekends, the hotel becomes the centre of Nevis island social life, with islanders and guests encouraged to mingle.
Before long, the chatter at dinner turns to things that go bump in the night. For everything is not all it seems on this curious little island – all thanks to the cheeky green vervet monkeys, which were introduced 300 years ago. A favourite pastime of theirs is tossing around mangoes and other tropical fruits, well into the wee small hours. But while it may irritate the lightest of sleepers, it doesn't take long for guests to learn that it's always best to go with the flow of nature on Nevis, as this is the secret to its charm.
That night at dinner, the island's resident beekeeper, an amiable Glaswegian, offered some amazing local knowledge built up over his years of teaching the techniques of honey-production. He is just one of the many ex-pats who have made the island their home, taking a back seat and enjoying a stress-free life.
The Hermitage offers a plethora of activities, from guided walking tours to the use of its yacht for sailing around the island. Yet by far the most exciting is riding one of its herd of rescued racehorses, which live in harmony in the grounds. The family will happily tack up their prized horses for an invigorating trek along the volcano, stopping off for a chat with the friendly locals along the way.
Rescued from a more arduous life at a race track in neighbouring Puerto Rico, the horses are an absolute joy. I was given the aptly named Confusion Dancer, and on our ride began to appreciate the island's history and its role as a capital of sugar production in the 18th century. A visit to one of the mills offers a trip back in time to when wealthy sugar barons made their fortunes here.
Indeed, the island shares a special connection with Scotland, which is clear from the remnants of the sugar mill – the working parts imported from the home of engineering, thousands of miles away in Glasgow. The island is proud of its Scottish roots and is famous for being the birthplace of Alexander Hamilton, a founding father of the US and son of the Duke of Hamilton.
Most of the plantations on the island are now hotels, but what sets Nevis apart from many Caribbean resorts is that, far from being faceless beachside compounds, these feel like part of a vibrant – and more often than not, quirky – community. Nevis is without doubt one of the Caribbean's last untouched Edens, a haven of verdant hills, pristine beaches, underwater coral kingdoms and lush, tropical rainforests.
But while the island has a reputation for luring the wealthy – evidenced by the Gulfstream jets and sightings of A-list celebrities such as Oprah Winfrey and Michelle Pfeiffer, who have been known to trek down here for a bit of peace and quiet – you would be hard pushed to find much evidence of glitz or flamboyance. There are no casinos, no nightclubs no designer boutiques and most definitely no raucous late-night beach parties.
The closest thing to nightlife is a low-key gathering at Oahlie Beach, a lively, fun resort where Friday nights are rung in with the sound of a steel drum band and toasted with the island's signature drink, the Monkey Passion.
For the most part Nevis is a quiet haven and perfect for those who wish to spend their days relaxing, snorkelling, sailing, scuba-diving or learning about the island's conservation efforts. It offers just the right recipe for those in need of some R&R.
Fact file: NevisTHE launch of the direct British Airways (www.ba.com) service from London to neighbouring St Kitts has made travelling to Nevis easier and more convenient.
Flights depart each Saturday from London Gatwick at 10:30am and arrive in St Kitts at 4:45pm the same afternoon. The return flight departs St Kitts at 6:15pm and arrives at Gatwick on Sunday morning at 7:50am. Flights start at £649 per person, including taxes.
On arrival in St Kitts, Nevis is a pleasant 45-minute ferry ride away, or a 20-minute connecting flight. The cost of the ferry differs according to the service used, but the price ranges from £5 to £6 each way, and booking isn't necessary.
Flights from St Kitts to Nevis are available from as little as £100 on Caribbean carrier LIAT (www.liatairline.com).
