WE clambered over the rocks covering the beach and came face to face with a tiny bundle of fur, its umbilical cord still attached. The newborn seal stared up at us with huge eyes and let out a surprisingly loud growl. Amazed, we backed away, but got out our cameras. As we looked around us we saw more and more of the baby seals, and further in the distance rotund adults lounging around on the beach. Out at sea inquisitive heads popped up and stared towards us, perhaps checking their offspring we
Stumbling across a colony of about 40 grey and harbour seals on a beach beneath the Duncansby Stacks in Caithness was the highlight of a four-day trip dominated by nature and the elements.
We drove up from Edinburgh the day after a huge snowfall,
meaning the journey through the Highlands was both stunning and slightly hairy, as we navigated ice-covered hairpin bends. It took about six hours to get to our weekend retreat, located just metres from the Pentland Firth – one of the most ferocious stretches of sea in the world, where the eagle-eyed can spot an orca or two. Unfortunately we were not so lucky.
By the time we arrived at 6pm we had no idea what to expect come morning. Night had already fallen on Caithness and, away from the bright lights of the city, a thick darkness shrouded everything. In the morning we were met with stunning views from our seafront bungalow. Cleverly built with large windows in the lounge, as well as patio doors, it offered a tremendous vista. Standing over the kitchen sink I watched, mesmerised, as huge flocks of seabirds dive-bombed the water in search of food. The Orkney Islands loom off the coast, tantalisingly close but unfortunately still too far away for a day trip during the winter, when daylight hours are short.
Winter is a wonderful time to visit Caithness, especially after a snowfall. The Castle of Mey, just a few miles from the bungalow, was surrounded by white and looked like a scene from a postcard. The blustery winter weather added an elemental feel to the holiday, and a trip to the incredible Dunnet Beach, with its impressive dunes and crashing waves (but still one hardy surfer), added to the experience. However, it would be equally enticing to return during the summer, when the longer days would make a day-trip to Orkney possible, and so many layers of warm clothes would not be necessary. Apparently in the height of summer it is not unusual for the twilight to extend beyond midnight.
The house, Mey Cliff Cottage, is very comfortable. Built in 2007 it is in immaculate condition, and has plenty of space making it suitable for families or groups of friends. The location is ideal for long walks, bike rides, a visit to the Castle of Mey – the late Queen Mother's residence in the north, and wildlife boat trips. John O' Groats is just a ten-minute car drive away, but we found it unremarkable. If the idea of setting foot in the farthest point north appeals, far better is a trip to Dunnet Head, which is unspoilt, offers incredible views and is actually the northernmost point on the British mainland.
There are plenty of shops nearby, as well as some restaurants, although they seemed quite pricey. A good find was the Taj Mahal curry house, tucked away in Castletown. Missing was a decent pub offering a warming log fire and pint of good beer, but once again this probably would not be so necessary in the warmer summer months.
We chose to drive the 300 miles to Caithness, which took up a sizeable chunk of two of the four days of our trip. However despite the long drive, the journey was spectacular, and added to the sense of adventure.There were plenty of attractions to stop off and visit en route from Edinburgh. However, it is also possible to get the train, on what is apparently a very scenic journey along the coast, or to fly, although flights to Thurso are expensive and mainly used by those in the oil industry.
Mey Cliff Cottage has three bedrooms (two doubles and one twin), one with an en suite bathroom. As well as a family room and kitchen, it has a utility room suitable for bikes or dogs, a large garden and is kitted out with a dishwasher, and a washing machine. The cottage was constructed by Alistair Wilson, who scoured the country in search of the most spectacular place to build a house, before settling for the sea-front spot in the wilds of stunning Caithness.
It was a wise choice and one that will surely bring pleasure to plenty of visitors adventurous enough to make the journey up here. sm
Factfile CAITHNESS
How to get there• If travelling by road, take the A9 to Thurso, then bear east towards John O'Groats. From Inverness the journey takes about three hours.
Where to stay• Mey Cliff Cottage, Mill of Mey, Scarfskerry, Thurso, Caithness (07749 757 799,
www.caithness-cottage.co.uk) costs from £395 per week in the winter.
And there's more• For details of wildlife tours in the Pentland Firth and ferries to Orkney visit
www.jogferry.co.uk• Castle of Mey, Thurso (
www.castleofmey.org.uk 01847 851 473). Open daily 10:30am-4pm, £9.
