THERE AREN'T MANY surprises on the Côte d'Azur. You're pretty much guaranteed good weather and the company of thousands of others in pursuit of the same ideal. The beaches would be fine if not permanently the site of a benign invasion force of sun-l
overs. There are times when the only solution to finding somewhere to swing a cat seems to be to jump on one of the coastline's many yachts – but unless your plan is the theft of a maritime vehicle, this will cost serious money.
Which is why Ile de Bendor is a secret well worth being in on. Even though I had directions from the airport – in my case Marseilles, though Toulon is nearer – when the taxi dropped me at the deserted marina in Bandol at 9pm, I had slight misgivings about achieving the final destination. The only sound was of a flotilla of boats dozing at anchor. A sign at a jetty announced it was the gateway to Ile de Bendor but it was in darkness, and the big boat tied to it was clearly not going anywhere.
After 15 minutes a small launch appeared. There was little time to settle – seven minutes later we were tying up in the island's tiny harbour. The reception committee of one comprised a large, hairy, ancient dog called Zorro who lives on the island and is looked after by whoever is around. I considered asking Zorro the way to my hotel then noticed the Delos was yards away.
The next morning revealed the island in its miniature glory. The buildings, which comprise Hotel Delos – built in the 1960s – have a deliberately Venetian air and the effect is mildly reminiscent of Portmeirion in Wales. Across the harbour is a row of brightly painted houses that in the past have been artists' studios. There is a swimming pool, but when the Med is only minutes away, the attractions of a confined space would only appeal to those of limited horizons.
Ducking through a gap in the tiny terrace, I came upon a charming stretch of sand, entirely uninhabited. The beach faces the mainland, so the stretch of sea between is utterly calm. You could swim to France and back in time for breakfast, not something you can say of many places.
After coffee and croissants I took a tour of my surroundings, like a castaway surveying the boundaries of his new world. Paul Ricard, who colonised Bendor and turned it into a centre for the arts, was also a passionate gardener, with the result that every square inch that can support plant life does so, from palm trees to bougainvillea and tamarisk. The whole place was designed to resemble a stage set, the decorative ironwork, glasswork and ceramics being created by local artists and craftsmen.
As if to enhance the dreamlike atmosphere of the place, many buildings are empty, including the theatre and wine museum. At the other end of the island is the Soukana Hotel, complete with nightclub and pool, and also awaiting redevelopment.
You can tour Bendor in 15 minutes, including the rocks on the wild side from where the dive school operates. You fetch up again at the Delos which, compared to what has gone before, is a mad whirl of activity.
The point of being here is that you are part of the French Riviera scene without being in the middle of it. Those with an urge for the crowded life can be back in Bandol within minutes but anyone with a good book and the need to stretch out undisturbed will be content with the sea views.
As I have indicated, there's little to do except relax – although the wine museum is open from May to October. The Exposition Universelle des Vins et Spiritueux (EUVS) currently has a fitting France and the World of Drink exhibition. On the three days I was there, a tequila conference was taking place and the Mexican spirit was available in abundance. I can report that this is a very suitable place to drink margaritas, as there is no end of time to sleep them off. In fact, the entire island experience could be viewed as the perfect antidote to the hangover of modern life.
Factfile: Bendor
How to get there• Flights from Scotland to Marseilles start from £207 from Glasgow, £225 from Edinburgh and £210 from Aberdeen, all with British Airways (tel: 0844 493 0787,
www.ba.com).
Where to stay• Hotel Delos, Ile de Bendor, 83150 Bandol, France (tel: 033 178 949040). A standard double room starts from £83.
And there's more• For more information on the Exposition Universelle des Vins et Spiritueux, tel: 033 494 051561 or visit
www.euvs.org• For more information on Ile de Bendor, see
www.informationfrance.com• Scotsman Reader Holidays offer seven night trips to the Tuscan Coast, Portofino and the Cote d'Azure from from £569 departing 7 and 14 September. Tel: 0131-620 8400 or visit
www.holidays.scotsman.comThe full article contains 846 words and appears in The Scotsman newspaper.
