On the north side of Glen Lyon is a line of four Munros commonly referred to as the Carn Mairg four, of which Carn Mairg is the highest. The most easterly (just) of the four is 981m/3218ft Meall nan Aighean, usually climbed last on a west/east circu
it. It occupies a triangular area, bounded by Glen Lyon to the south, the Allt Coire a' Chearcaill to the west, and the Allt Odhar to the east in Gleann Muilinn. An unprepossessing hill, Meall nan Aighean suffers by its proximity to Carn Mairg, while to the north-east, beyond Gleann Muilinn, is the much more impressive bulk of Schiehallion.
Unless perhaps on a harsh winter day, or if time is short, it is seldom climbed on its own. If being climbed as a single hill, the popular route of ascent starts from Glen Lyon, using the hill's south-west ridge. This approach gives quick and easy access to the small summit area which has a well-defined top at 974m, a short distance south-west of the Munro, and arguably a better viewpoint. The summit falls away east to a 904m bump, followed by a smaller bump at 822m, beneath which is Creag Mhór, the crag obvious to view from Glen Lyon. The southern slopes are steep, with outcrops stretching west to east: Roinn na Creige, Creag Dhearg and Creag Mhór – awkward crags that mean these slopes are seldom climbed.
Creag Mhór was the original name for Meall nan Aighean, another example of the name of a lower feature being applied to the hill as a whole. Old maps, while showing Creag Mhór in its correct position, had no name for the summit nearly two miles distant. Creag Mhór was renamed as late as 1997 as hill of the heifers or hinds, and is easy to get muddled with the Etive Beinn nan Aighenan. Nevertheless, it is shown on the Landranger as Meall na Aighean.
My first visit to Creag Mhór, as it was then called, made it my 21st Munro. Even in those early days, having already climbed the likes of Slioch and Beinn Eighe, I was aware that not all Munros are equal, at least in terms of effort. It took less than two hours to reach the summit.
The hill overlooks the once thriving little community of Invervar, but all that remains now are a couple of mansion houses, a few cottages and the old smiddy. Hillwalkers used to park on the roadside, but a small off-road area on the south side, just before the Invervar Burn at map ref 666482, is now accessible.
Cross the road and pass a large metal gate to take the track that climbs north through the wooded area to the east of the burn. Once onto open countryside, ascend ENE over a grassy area, following the all too evident path. Below Roinn na Creige you will reach an old stalkers' path that heads northerly to the Allt Coire a' Chearcaill. Ignore that path, however, and continue north-east, with the ridge becoming more defined as it turns east towards the summit area. On a misty day it may be worthwhile navigating first to the 974m south-west top before continuing to the summit cairn. On descent to that top, avoid its immediate craggy west slopes by a bearing almost due north for a short distance.
My most recent visit to Meall nan Aighean was last month, on a solo trip. I was returning to Fortingall by way of Gleann Muilinn when I heard, and then saw, two Argocats approaching. The first stalker asked if I had seen any deer. Not one all day, was my reply. "There is one over there," he said, pointing a short distance away. It had not occurred to me that he had been referring to deer recently shot. The deer were quickly and efficiently gralloched. When I saw the entrails on the cold ground I remarked that I had been thinking of having a haggis supper on the way home, but had now decided on fish instead.
I asked if I could get a lift down to Fortingall – not because of laziness, but because I had never been on an Argocat. "No problem," he said. Having a good old blether, off we went, one stalker and one hillwalker in front and four disembowelled deer behind. Thanks to Jimmy, that completed a memorable day.
FactfileMap Ordnance Survey map 51, Loch Tay & Glen Dochart
Distance 5 miles
Height 800m
Terrain Track then Munro path
Start point Off-road area at Invervar at map ref 666482
Time 4 to 5 hours
Nearest village Fortingall
Nearest refreshment spot Fortingall Hotel
The full article contains 799 words and appears in The Scotsman newspaper.
