If a quieter and arguably more satisfying non-hillwalking day appeals, a seldom-used circular walk around Leagag, a 601m hill at the west end of Loch Rannoch, could be of interest. This small feature lies in the shadow of the better-known Meall Bui
dhe, situated to the south and midway between upper Glen Lyon and Loch Rannoch. Almost without exception, Meall Buidhe is climbed from the Loch an Daimh dam in upper Glen Lyon. The unattractive dam lies at over 400m and the distance to the summit is two and a half miles. The easy gradient over gentle grassy slopes and with a well-worn path means that Meall Buidhe is one of the easiest Munros; so much so that Stuchd an Lochain, to the south, is often climbed on the same day. It therefore follows that not many hillwalkers are familiar with the worthwhile attractions of its northern side.
Meall Buidhe forms a north/south plateau, with the small central bulge being the summit. From Bridge of Gaur and Loch Rannoch, however, the prominent landmark is Garbh Mheall, the craggy north end of the plateau. It is no real surprise that Garbh Mheall was originally tabled as the Munro. My 1999 map still shows it in larger print.
It is thus Garbh Mheall and not Meall Buidhe that is the dominant feature on this week's walk from Loch Rannoch, round Leagag and by the edge of the wooded northern slopes of Garbh Mheall.
You will need Ordnance Survey map 51, Loch Tay & Glen Dochart. Park with consideration off the south Loch Rannoch road.
Three miles east of Bridge of Gaur, an excellent track follows the west bank of the Allt Camghouran, passing Wester Camghouran to reach a stile beside a 7ft high, padlocked gate. Erected by Finnart Estate, the gate has a permanent sign warning of stalking in progress from August to February, and prohibiting mountain bikes at all times (for up-to-date information, tel: 01882 633248).
Climb the high stile and, further on, another one, passing on the right the woodland regeneration area of Coille Mhór. To the left is the most impressive ravine of the Allt Camghouran. When I was there a few weeks ago, it was still impressive despite the many dried-up boulders showing amid the little trickle of water.
Continue past the hidden-at-first Loch Monaghan. Further south-west, a side path comes in from Loch Finnart, which is renowned for its brown trout. By the path, at map ref 533546, is a grassy knoll with a small cairn. The cairn's plaque simply states: loving memories of Alex J Menzies, shepherd, 1928-1990. It is a tranquil, scenic place of repose.
South of Leagag, a bridge crosses the delightfully named Luban Feithe a' Mhadaidh, whose waters, though not on my visit, meander through a boggy area. (You will notice a stalkers' path on the map that cuts across the south side of Leagag. More pleasant maybe than the track, but with a bit of up and down, it is a short cut for tired legs.)
Continue south-west towards another bridge at map ref 510527. A heathery sidetrack goes south on the beautiful east bank of the Allt Easan Stalcair – small cascade of the stalker – and so into open country east of Garbh Mheall, one route to Meall Buidhe. Instead, skirting the moorland, stay with the main track, going west to the bridge over the Allt Stoc na Creadha. Ignore another heathery track and stile on the west bank of that stream and head north towards Loch Rannoch.
The less-used track descends easily from 400m by the western side of Leagag to the Rannoch road at map ref 504565. A short distance west is Bridge of Gaur and Rannoch Barracks, built in the aftermath of the 1745 Jacobite Rebellion.
A pre-placed bicycle will eliminate the three-mile walk back east to the car, but it is hardly a chore to stroll by the wooded edge of Loch Rannoch. Look out for the lochside Braes Kirk, and on the north side the water extraction pipes descending to Bridge of Ericht Power Station – from a distance they seem to be heading for Eilean nam Faoileag in mid-loch.
Factfile
Map Ordnance Survey map 51, Loch Tay & Glen Dochart
Distance 9 miles, of which 3 can be cycled
Height 200m
Terrain Track and minor road
Start point Track at Wester Camghouran, three miles east of Bridge of Gaur, at map ref 549565
Time 4 to 5 hours
Nearest village Kinloch Rannoch
Nearest refreshment spot Dunalastair Hotel, Kinloch Rannoch
The full article contains 784 words and appears in The Scotsman newspaper.
