Walk of the week: Cairn Gorm and Cairn Lochan

THE Cairngorms are Champions League mountains, or so I described them to some young relatives while walking there last month. To sit by Loch Morlich on a bright, sunny day with traces of snow still dotted across the panorama of Cairn Gorm, Coire an t-Sneachda and Cairn Lochan, you could be forgiven for thinking you were in Austria or even New Zealand.

What a funny place, therefore, to build a railway. Trains and mountains are a popular combination in the Alps, the one on Snowdon is always busy, and now the Cairngorms have their own. They are good for taking tourists into areas they might not otherwise be able to get to and bring much-needed money into the local economy.

The funicular, which starts at Coire Cas, does mean there is a big car park, café and shop – not bad for a start point of a little over 2,000ft. And, because of the height, the views begin right at the outset of this walk, from the car park back down towards Aviemore over Loch Morlich.

I always have a nagging feeling that railways go against the spirit of the great outdoors, though. There is no getting away from the fact that the start of this walk is rather marred by the metal and concrete of both the funicular and the ski-lifts. But don't be deterred – it's not long before you get up the steep slopes to reach the Ptarmigan Top Station, about 500ft below the summit.

Don't think you can cheat on the climbing by taking the train up this far and walking the rest – to protect Cairn Gorm's fragile environment, passengers are not allowed to walk out on to the mountain. For those who have made it up under their own steam, though, it is only a short way to the summit and its wonderful views. To the south-west is Cairn Lochan, beyond the shattered cliffs of Coire an t-Sneachda – this is the way you will be heading. Slightly west of south is Ben Macdui – the second highest mountain in Scotland. To the north on a really clear day you can see as far as Morven in Caithness.

You then have a fine traverse of high-mountain country where the vast sub-Arctic Cairngorm plateau stretches south. The return to the car park after this is an easy stroll on a good path along heathery slopes.

Don't be fooled by all the signs of civilisation at the start of this walk – it is dangerous terrain and claims lives every year. Make sure you are fully equipped for bad weather and can use a map and compass, especially in low cloud and mist. Take extreme care in high winds and consider another, lower-level route.

Distance 71/2 miles.
Height climbed 2,582ft.
Time 5 to 6 hours.
Map OS Landranger 36.

Park

Take the B970 from Aviemore, through the Rothiemurchus and Glenmore Forests. Go past Loch Morlich and up to the Coire Cas car park, next to the funicular railway station.

In summary

Go to the top of the car park and pass the ranger base on your left, then walk between the railway station and the café. A track leads under the railway to a red telephone box at which you turn left off the track and on to a path going up through heather before bearing right.

Ignore smaller paths going off to the left and head for some snow fences, at which point you turn right to reach the Ptarmigan Top Station. From the back of the station, take a wide, well-built path to the top of Cairn Gorm.

From the summit, go right, or west, to drop down to the col at the top of Coire Cas. Go left then right up to Stob Coire an t-Sneachda then down again to another col. Continuing straight ahead from the col, you reach the rounded top of Cairn Lochan. From the top of this, bear right and follow some cairns. When the cairns finish, bear further right and drop down to the top of a burn. Cross this and follow a path to the right. This gradually becomes wider as it leaves the higher slopes and heads in a virtually straight line to the car park, just over two miles away.

Refreshments

There is a café next to the car park and plenty of places to suit all tastes in Aviemore.

While you are in the area

There is no end of outdoor activities on offer in and around Aviemore, from sailing or kayaking on Loch Morlich to sled dog trips in Rothiemurchus. But this is a great time of year to head for the RSPB's centre in Abernethy Forest, near Boat of Garten (www.rspb.org.uk/reserves/guide/l/lochgarten/index.asp, 01479 831476) – it is one of the best places in Scotland to see ospreys.