AT FIRST glance, this walk appears to be little more than an afternoon stroll up a pleasant river. But it is one of the best in Scotland as it gives a fantastic taste of the vast emptiness of Caithness.
The far north-east is not usually considered as a destination for walkers but it really is a wonderful, remote place to escape to and stride out undisturbed for miles and miles.
There wasn't always quite so much peace and quiet here. The coast was
once far busier, with the herring boom of the 19th century bringing prosperity to the area. Away from the sea, thriving communities occupied the straths until the Highland Clearances emptied the land.
Dunbeath and its own strath are good examples of both these events. It is also the setting for Highland River by Neil Gunn, who was born in Dunbeath in 1891. In fact, there is so much history connected to this walk that you should pick up a leaflet on the strath and the trail up it from the Dunbeath Heritage Centre (see below).
Shortly after the start you can visit an Iron Age broch dating from 2,500 years ago. (After crossing a rickety, but safe, suspension bridge, go though a wooden gate and follow a path up to the ancient walls of the structure.)
The walk then leads to Prisoner's Leap Gorge, where legend says Ian McCormack Gunn leapt to freedom after being captured by the Keiths. After this, you climb on to windswept moorland, passing the ruins of Loedebest, a village left deserted by the Clearances.
Eventually, you reach a white-walled cemetery, Tutnaguail. Isolated, miles away from the village, it's a great place to stop and contemplate this mesmerising, almost forgotten area.
From here, you can wander further into the vast empty lands of Caithness – although if you are attempting to extend the walk make sure you are fully equipped for a long trek. This route returns the same way at first but avoids the gorge by continuing down a track and then crossing farmland. It can be very muddy and the going is steep up the side of the gorge, so ensure you wear good boots. This is remote country so dress appropriately and take sufficient food and drink with you.
Distance 51/2 miles.
Height climbed 360ft.
Time 3 to 4 hours.
Map OS Landranger 11.
Park Turn off the A9 at the north end of a bridge at Dunbeath. Follow the road down to the left but turn right after a few yards, just before an older stone bridge, to reach a car park next to an old mill by Dunbeath Water.
In summary Follow a grassy path along Dunbeath Water, heading upstream. Cross a suspension bridge (pedestrian-only) and follow a path going left and continue upstream, along level ground.
The path starts gradually to bear right before climbing steeply up the side of a gorge to eventually meet a fence. Go right here and follow the fence until you reach a track and a gate, where you go left. The track leads across open moorland, past a derelict farmhouse, to a white-walled cemetery.
Return along the track, keeping straight on at the point where you joined it earlier. Drop down past a few houses and look out for a barn on the right, just as the road turns sharp left.
Just beyond the barn, follow a fence down the edge of a field to a gate. Go right, through the gate, and follow the edge of another field – above the Houstry Burn, on your left – to reach a small wooden gate below an Iron Age broch.
Go through the gate and turn left to re-cross the suspension bridge you went over earlier, then retrace your steps to the start.
The last section, beyond the barn, is pathless and crosses farmland. You could keep following the road down and then up to the right to reach the A9, where you go right to drop down to Dunbeath.
Refreshments The Inver Arms, on the A9, serves great steaks.
While you are in the area Visit Dunbeath Heritage Centre (01593 731233, www.dunbeath-heritage. org.uk). It has a great exhibition focusing on Neil Gunn.
