THERE might not be many Munros in the far north-west of Scotland, but everything in the region is on a big scale. The grandeur of the peaks is amplified by the way they are spaced out across large areas of moorland. Along the coast, huge cliffs and sea stacks link quiet bays and coves, while sea lochs stretch inland. This really is raw nature at its best.
The best way to get into the heart of this wilderness is to walk across it to the top of what is reputed to be Britain's highest waterfall, Eas a'Chual Aluinn, which drops 650ft.
Treat this walk seriously, especially as you approach the falls. You
are in remote country and the weather, as always on high ground, can deteriorate quickly. The conditions underfoot are very boggy in places and in others extremely rough, so take full mountain gear, even in summer.
The car park at the start is impressive in itself, below the ramparts of Quinag. From here you follow a path by Loch na Gainmhich to some stepping stones leading over the burn flowing out of it. Before you cross, it is well worth taking a detour left to see a waterfall a few yards further down – this can also be seen from below by driving down the road, parking at the bottom of some bends and walking up the burn (from the bottom you will also see a pinnacle of rock in the gorge).
If the stepping stones are overwhelmed by fast-flowing water it is not safe to cross and unfortunately there is no easy way to continue without tramping right round the boggy shores of the loch.
Take care not to go the wrong way after the stepping stones (see summary, below) and plod on above the loch with the wide Coire Dearg above it on the other side.
As you veer away from the loch the path gets steeper, but take your time and look back for views to the right of Quinag, over the end of Loch a Chairn Bhain out to Eddrachillis Bay. Eventually you reach Loch Bealach a Bhuirich. This is real mountain country, with Glas Bheinn rising behind the loch and a mass of rock ridges and outcrops around.
Beyond it, a short rise marks the end of strenuous uphill walking (at least until the way back) and opens up a breathtaking new view to the east across desolate wilderness, with the Stack of Glencoul right in front – a major landmark on the main road north of Kylesku. To the right of it you can glimpse the high Loch nan Caorach.
When you get to the top of the falls you can't actually see much – don't be tempted to go too far as the drop is fatal. Instead, cross the burn 30 yards higher up, above some rapids, and make your way over a rise and along the top of the sheer-sided gorge (don't scramble down as it's very unstable underfoot). This entails more effort, but you'll see a lot more of the falls and be able to look down Loch Beag and Loch Glencoul beyond.
Distance 91/2 miles.
Height climbed 1,600ft.
Time 4 to 5 hours.
Map OS Landranger 15.
Park There is a car park by the side of the A894, 31/2 miles south of Kylesku at the top of a steep hill above Unapool.
In summary From the top end of the car park, a grass path runs parallel to the road. After a few yards, when Loch na Gainmhich comes into view, bear left on a boggy path to reach stepping stones over a burn – go left just before them to see a waterfall. If the stepping stones are covered by fast-flowing water it is not safe to cross and there is no way of continuing this way.
On the other side of the burn make sure you take the correct path (second from the right). A path to the left goes to another view of the gorge containing the falls. Another, slightly further right, goes up a grass track and then away to the left. The next path to the right is the correct one, leading above the loch (not right next to it).
This boggy path gradually veers away from the loch and around a hillside to the left. As you climb higher, ignore a path going off and down to the right and continue to Loch Bealach a Bhuirich.
There is a short uphill section from this loch before you drop down and gradually bear right, towards the reed-filled Loch Poll Amhluaidh. Go left at the burn just below this, taking extreme care as the boggy path reaches the top of the falls.
Go back up the burn about 30 yards and cross it above some rapids, with a cairn shaped like a small wall on the other side. Follow a faint path over a rise and along the top of the gorge (take extreme care and don't try to scramble down as the ground is very unstable) before looking back to the falls. Retrace your steps to the start.
Refreshments The Kylesku Hotel is closest and has some of the best seafood in the area.
The full article contains 885 words and appears in Scotland On Sunday newspaper.
