WHEN WE think of Corsica what springs to mind? A rugged, mountainous is-land, Napoleon's birthplace, Frenchmen with an Italian twist ... but we rarely think of wine. That's not surprising, as little of it is available in the UK, sought out only by holiday-makers who have discovered some island gems.
It is early days for Corsica's modern wine industry, but I believe it has very good potential. It may be France's southernmost region but it is not its hottest. Altitude and wind play their part on this island – which is what makes Corsica so interes
ting. Until recently, however, its real value was under-exploited. When France lost Algeria in the 1960s, growers moved to southern Corsica to fill the gap with high-volume co-operative quaffers – quadrupling vineyard sizes, which was a disaster for wine quality.
Since then, another sea-change has occurred. Thanks to vast subsidies from Paris, some 20,000 hectares of poor grapes were ripped out in the 1980s and winemakers were sent to oenological school at Montpellier.
What I find fascinating is that Corsica is a mix of France and Italy. The grapes are Italian, culturally the people are more Italian. They even have their own local mafia. But they are administered from Paris.
Most interesting of the white grapes is Italian Vermentino, which produces fresh, floral dry styles. Corsica's classic, succulent sweet whites derive mainly from Muscat.
The most promising red is the widely planted Nielluccio – the name given here to Tuscany's Sangiovese, imported by the Genoese, who once ruled Corsica. Chianti lovers, take note: Corsican reds bear an uncanny resemblance, with herby resonance and cherried fruits.
There's a mix of very different terroirs on the island, from the limestone soils of Patrimonio to the steep southerly granite slopes of Porto-Vecchio and the schist in northerly Coteaux du Cap Corse. Add into the mix a new breed of passionate growers, such as Yves Leccia and Antoine Arena, who have travelled and tasted widely, and Corsica is well along the twisty road towards realising its potential.
WhiteVIN DE CORSE-PORTO VECCHIO 2006 Domaine Torraccia
(£10.25, Yapp Bros, 01747 860423, www.yapp.co.uk)
Christian Imbert's organic Vermentino with a touch of Ugni Blanc, grown on granite soils; very herby, lavender notes, rich, creamy fruits and a dry finish. 14/20
VIN DE CORSE-CALVI 2006
(£10, Les Caves de Pyren, 01483 538820, www. lescaves.co.uk)
Very fresh, vibrant Vermentino with floral and apricot aromas, leesy creamy palate leaning towards weightiness but with delightful minerally, herby undertones. 16/20
AJACCIO BLANC 2006 Domaine Comte Abbatucci
(£17.50, Dynamic Vines, 07534 265662)
An intriguing example of Vermentino from this biodynamic estate. A rich but fresh floral white, very sweet, ripe fruits balanced with minerally undertones. 15.5/20
RedPATRIMONIO 2004 Domaine Leccia
(£11.95, The Wine Society, 01438 740222)
Full, herby Nielluccio with explosive cherry fruits: all Chianti-lovers should try this. 15.5/20
AJACCIO ROUGE, CUVEE FAUSTINO 2006 Domaine Comte Abbatucci
(£17, Dynamic Vines)
A blend of Sciacarello, Nielluccio and Carignan; too tannic to finish. 12/20
VIN DE CORSE-SARTENE 2006 Domaine Saparale
(£10.25, Yapp Bros)
Intriguing cherry-fruited blend of Nielluccio and Sciacarello from the west coast; seems more mature than its age. 15/20
RoséCOTEAUX DU CAP CORSE ROSé 2007 Domaine Pieretti
(£10.25, Yapp Bros)
A blend of Nielluccio, Grenache and Alicante with ripe berried fruits and fresh acidity. Delicious. 15.5/20
THE BEST DEALS THIS WEEKENDFIZZ
CHAMPAGNE LOUIS ROEDERER BRUT NV
(£22.99, reduced from £32.99, Luvians, Cupar, 01334 654820)
Knockdown price for a serious non-vintage from makers of Cristal.
RED
SHAW & SMITH SHIRAZ 2006
(£18.49, Peckhams, Glasgow; Luvians, Cupar; Lockett Bros, North Berwick)
New complex, peppery, brambly, velvet-smooth Shiraz from Oz's cool(ish) Adelaide hills.
ROSé
BRAMPTON ROSé 2007
(£4.99, reduced from £5.99, Co-op until 1 June)
The Rustenberg Estate's stylish, fresh rosé has rose-petal aromas and cherry fruits.
The full article contains 669 words and appears in The Scotsman newspaper.
