VICTORIA Moore is not amused. The author of How to Drink is clearly not pleased with my choice of beverage. Walking back from the bar I can vaguely make out her pained expression. Arriving at the table she makes her full displeasure known. At issue is my gin and tonic, or to be precise the size of the can of tonic water. "I'm not a great fan of that brand," she says. "Oh, and you've chosen 200ml; that's far too much tonic. I never order that much tonic."
We're in The White Horse in Parsons Green, taking a few minutes in between a busy London tasting schedule. I insisted on gin and tonic as it is quite clear Victoria has issues with this particular summer tipple. A chapter in her book entitled "The d
angers of becoming a G&T obsessive" says it all. Most of you may think making up a G&T is the easiest thing in the world; five minutes in the company of Victoria Moore may change your mind.
"To make a good gin and tonic you do not just have to care about every ingredient, you have to be anguished about them," she says. In her world strong, muscular gins with plenty of flavour such as Tanqueray and Gordon's Export will only do. Four ice cubes is a minimum. Individual cans of tonic, the smaller the better, are the only vessels that are fizzy enough. Schweppes is the best. Ice, a hunk of lemon slightly squeezed around the rim of the glass, gin and then lastly top up with a little tonic. Put like that I feel a little inadequate. I feel I have failed.
Gin tasting has been a side hobby of mine for a few years. Its fun to pick up flavours such as coriander, angelica, orange peel, lemon peel, cardamom, cinnamon and nutmeg and observe the difference in styles between brands such as Tanqueray (spicy and herbal with a dry nose) and Plymouth, Winston Churchill's favourite, which is much heavier and more strongly flavoured.
But there is much more to How to Drink, which is published this week, than gin, which is why I recommend it as a must for every kitchen library. Packed with useful vignettes it not only espouses the merits of gin but goes into detail on how to make the perfect martini, iced coffee for hot days, the art of choosing the right tea, what to serve someone who doesn't drink alcohol and the ideal drink for weekday mornings.
Picnic drinks should "be like a good cheeseboard: two or three solidly decent things, not too complicated, not too prissy, and plenty of them." One particular favourite is a nostalgia list that recaptures lost youth and the bizarre fact that ice cubes freeze quicker if made with warm water.
"Ice plays a very important role in my life," she admits. "What I wanted to do was create a manual that people can use when they are entertaining. Too often we focus on the food when what we drink is often forgotten."
I couldn't agree more. Now for that perfect martini: Plymouth gin, stirred with ice, Noilly Prat smeared round the rim but none in the drink, and a twist of lemon. I'll remember that for next time.
• How to Drink, by Victoria Moore, £15.99, is published by Granta
Gordon's Export, 47.3%, 1 litre, £23.95Much stronger than the standard Gordon's London Dry with a more muscular fragrant nose. Tasted neat there is a little bit of ginger there. Gordon's is the official gin suppliers to the Queen.
Tanqueray, 43.1%, 70cl, £16.49Founded in 1830 by Charles Tanqueray, silversmith to the Royal Family, this has a very herbal, stunningly dry nose. There is a lot of juniper in the glass and a big meaty finish.
Beefeater, 40%, 70cl, £13.75The only major brand of London Dry still actually distilled in London. Victoria points out it's the connoisseur's choice with nine botanicals (juniper, angelica root, angelica seed, liquorice, coriander seed, orris root, lemon zest, Seville orange rind and almond.) A strong, powerful flavour, it makes a robust G&T.
Stockists: All products are widely available throughout Scotland and the UK in supermarkets and independent wine merchants.
Not sure which bottle to buy? See more of Will Lyons' recommendations and tasting notes by logging on to www.scotlandonsunday.com
Deals of the weekTaittinger Brut Reserve NVWas £35.99 each, now £22.99, at Oddbins (www.oddbins.com)
Isla Negra Reserva merlot/merlot rosé/sauvignon blanc 75clUsually £7.99 each, now £3.99, at Somerfield (www.somerfield.co.uk). Plus 5 per cent off when you buy six or more bottles of wine
Rioja Reserva 2000 Viña PomalUsually £10.99 but buy two bottles for £6.99 and save £8, at Majestic (www.majestic.com)
